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Derek H

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About Derek H

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  • Birthday January 1

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  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. I used Steiner electric in Chicago. They laid out the hole pattern for the panel. It seems super solid and I’m not worried about it at all.
  2. It’s from 80/20. They cut the corners out and drilled and countersunk the holes. Rounded the edge as well. No think of like a 1/4” solid slab of hdpe with thin aluminum veneer on each side. Lighter than solid aluminum and less expensive but seems very solid. I think they just call it aluminum composite on their site.
  3. Amazing weather today.. finally found some time to dig into this cart project. Here’s about 3 hours work. First impressions... I like this T-slot stuff. Seems slightly fiddly at first but then gets really solid as you tighten things up. Pre-loading the hardware on things is the way to go. The panel material is called Alucobest and seems very solid. Basically a solid 1/4” slab of some kind of heavy duty plastic with very thin aluminum cladding on both sides. Hope it never catches fire cause I’m sure it will give me cancer. All of 80/20’s cuts and milling work was spot on and
  4. I don’t have the part numbers handy but just their standard 10” pneumatic casters. Two rigid, two swivel with foot brake. 4x4.5” plate mount I think. I think 80/20 charges less for a smooth drill through hole. I think it’s called an access hole in their parlance.
  5. I got all the stuff I ordered last week plus picked up an order from McMaster for casters and miscellaneous hardware. hoping to start building this weekend sometime.
  6. https://www.mcmaster.com/6435K19/ and replace the socket head screw with something like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/9976K16/ though with this exact part the handle would be awfully short. Maybe a local machinist could make something longer. just an idea.
  7. Here’s an idea for diy’ing. Buy split shaft collars and machine a handle to have the right thread on one side. Add a rubber grip. I’m not a huge fan of the innovative rotating handles because they have a tendency to slip when you need them. Like going up a ramp.
  8. At least find a power bank that operates at 12 volts. Otherwise you’ll be losing some efficiency to the boost converter. The RF/EMI noise could be a real issue.
  9. I would recommend buying even used professional NP1s before going this route. But yes, it would probably work.
  10. I have a couple penn elcom steel drawers and I’m not impressed with them at all. Glides seem cheap, are poorly aligned and come off track occasionally. Overall build quality just seems low. I contacted them to see what they might offer for help and basically the answer was nothing since I was out of warranty even though they discontinued the model I have probably because of flaws. I have them in a rack with a Rackman brand drawer that is much nicer and the two brands do not play nicely and rub against each other making them both hard to open. Really too bad that Rackman went under.
  11. Both. So different sizes but definitely looking for round not zip cord. Though zip cord works well for most barrel type connectors.
  12. I just bought some 16/2 round boat cable as well as various size 2 conductor unshielded cable from Pacer which sells marine electrical supplies. The wire itself is high quality with individually tinned copper stranding and nice insulation on the individual conductors but the cable jacket overall insulation is a lot stiffer than I’d like.
  13. I feel like I’ve tried so many and still haven’t found a favorite. Specifically talking about 2-conductor, unshielded, stranded cable, round cable, not zip. 16, 20, & 22 awg. My main hang up is I can’t find one I like that is flexible enough. Something close to good mic cable ideally. closest I’ve come is 16/2 sjo cable by the foot from Home Depot which is just like a thin stinger but the insulation on the conductors melts back pretty terribly. Really only made for crimping or screw down connections. Any ideas?
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