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I am noticing lots of digital artifacts i the audio signal with URX's and my camera link vs rx200 at the same distance. wondering if there is anything to help improve reception? from a technical standpoint, curious if i can put a wire whip antenna attached to ground on the 1/8" connector (that connector is also carrying audio signal to the 1/8 input) to help put the 2nd antenna in the air similar to the standard antenna next to it, or will that not have any affect? -Ken

Just wanted to report back on these antennas - i switched over to these replacing all my antennas and i love them. However sure enough i managed to figure out how to break them. Indeed like mentioned prior they are highly durable but not indestructible. Twice i have had some sort of impact on these antennas. although they dont show visual damage, the pin inside cracks and give the illusion the antenna is still functioning. Then one day you suddenly lose transmission/reception range and may think the device itself is failing. The way to verify is 1) the pin falls out (obvious) or 2) the pin is loose by checking with tweezers etc. the loose pin is the killer because it looks ok to the eye but causes rando drop outs. -Ken

Great input thanks!

I am finding myself more and more in situations where people want to wire themselves (maybe these current times have something do do with it??) the soundguys solutions zmt clips are great when i deploy them to talent because i can deal with how stiff they are and i like the grip factor on clothing once placed. The downside is the plastic breaks at the base of these clips and I’ve replaced 4 in the last year. Talent cannot seem to deal with self applying these clips because of how super stiff they are. I am looking at the clips linked below, curious if anyone has user feedback? The sound guy solutions seems like a good fit although they are really expensive And a bulk factor. The sound cases one seems a better fit but I’m afraid of the quality of the plastic as they look like they could break really easy The sound cases one seems a better fit but I’m afraid of the quality of the plastic as they look like they could break really easy Are there any out there I am missing? https://www.trewaudio.com/product/sound-guys-solutions-zmt-s-clip/ https://soundcases.nyc/product/zaxcom-zmt-series-belt-clip/ i have an idea for a hybrid model i am currently working on in the meantime

funny you said that - client suggested a headset mic just ordered a rental to go with the hidden lav and dual transmitters. glad to hear sounds like it worked out

Curious if anyone has done as i am not sure how much time i will have to experiment. Its for a 360 tour in a noisy environment and i will have to rig up and go. Considering double lav, one traditional hidden at chest and one hidden in top foam of shield and allowing prod to go with best of the 2. Anyone with any personal experience and pitfalls i should watch for?

I had my nova repaired, received it back, all was good for about 2 weeks and now i have the same coincell battery problem again with the error shown below. anyone else experiencing this issue or is it isolated to my unit? Anyone ever have zaxcom do a replacement of equipment under warranty or will i have to send it back again and pray for a repair? I cant stand the thought of being without it. Worklife would be sweet if it werent hinging entirely on this battery. I am burning thru batteries staying powered on and “waiting on sound” while I frantically replug all my settings when i lose power. Total nightmare. This coincell battery is a spirit crusher

is this, for lack of better description, the "talking thru a paper towel tube" sound that happens even though both parties are talking directly into phone (not speaker phone) with full bars? that drives me nuts spending most of my time trying to figure out what someone is saying in all the low pass sounding mud that seems to phase in and out. my wife and i started using whats app to talk on the phone and the voice quality is night and day. at first i thought it was android vs apple devices, att vs verizon services. but a virtual voice box makes sense why this keeps happening and is accepted as the norm.

This solution I have might not be for everybody - but it took me years to refine this return from camera thing and I've landed on what i feel to be the most reliable for me personally. I use a lectro sma with a dual mono 1/8 connector wired lectro line level. I have the sma set to mode 6 and i feed sennheiser iem’s from camera - 1x for me and rest for director client script etc. 90% of my jobs work very well this way, or i can switch to a transmitter from my rig as needed. Sound quality is scary good. The lectro sma seems to be the one solution the handles all the various headphone output types on cameras extremely well (ran into trouble with sennheiser transmitters on certain camera headphone jack outputs, for example). Its super compact to attach anywhere on the camera and provides a great deal of confidence on what camera is receiving for complete wireless send and return. Plus camera playback is instant to all iem listeners without having to reroute, deal with level changes, etc. On bigger jobs i return to a 411a at my cart. I use eneloop pro’s and get about 4hrs ea run. Not a solution for everybody’s budget i know but when you need something close to bulletproof...this solution might be as close as one can get with all the wireless options i have personally tested. YMMV -Ken

Just wanted to report back, replacing lyre suspension with the classic ring/rubber band rycote combo did the trick for handling noise with this mic for my purposes

great info!

will definitely explore cinela after i exhaust my rycote options since i already invested down that path with all sorts of rycote bits for this mic. I did just find a stash of rycote parts in my storage to experiment with different mount options in combo with the no10 zep. I am going to try a few things and see if i can get a hold of a cinela mount to test if no luck

I am struggling with handling noise issues on this particular Mike compared to my DPA 4017 or mkh50 without hipass engaged. Curious if anyone else is experiencing it and found a proper solution? I have two different lyre suspensions i tried inside a Rycote Zepplin and i also tried attaching a connbox. Ktek and loon poles. On my dpa i can sneak pole extensions during takes but on this sanken i feel like i cant move. Slight hand repositions seem to transfer. Gonna try the psc rubber bands to see if that helps. I still love the sound of this mic very much, enough to suffer thru while i keep trying different combos -Ken

i should note *i think* if you are not plugged into your phone with external mic before logging into zoom meet it defaults to your phones internal mic

I am doing one right now - but my setup is far from modern design. Feeding a director monitoring on zoom remotely. He is on a laptop literally parked in front of a physical monitor (not sdi feed). I am called into zoom meeting with my iPhone 6s and a custom TRSS cable feeds my phone jack mono mic level. Each time we cut i mute my zoom feed and producer unmutes laptop for open discussion. Producer mutes laptop i unmute zoom and cycle repeats

I absolutely love it as well. My goto on almost everything as of late. I recorded a private jet firing up engines and taxi to runway with no distortion. Mine is fairly new relative to this thread

I am in as well

Bingo thats it. I had planned to purchased ediload for an upcoming project, this solution seems better than trying to make an apple script. thanks mark for the tip

sorry guys wanted to check back one more time to see if anyone found a solution. i fear i might need to send mine in for warranty repair. mine works ok for a period of time powering on powering off no warnings, then randomly happens. my date goes to jan 01 2000, my timecode resets (which is why i use a denecke jb1 to keep my tc locked in all day), my primary folder resets to that saved with my last preset recall, and my faders all set to noon. I unfortunately dont have facebook so i am missing out. I am currently forced to stay powered on morning til lunch knowing i have to reset all above to get back to work. i want to check my battery one more time to see if it is drained - could it be software related draining my battery? I know they are aware of an issue but my issue does seem different than those issues being reported. pulled the battery and its at 3.06v -Ken

Is there a shortcut in pt that exists? I found a clever apple script that a post guy made but unfortunately it gets hung up. I was considering building my own in automator. Basically I want to bring in a ton of production sound files spotted to orignal time stamps when i usually do this manually one by one

good to know. i talked to service today and if you get the warning but it is still holding date and time, you should be ok while a fix is in the works. mine in particular was losing date so a battery replace was a fix for me at least for now.

what firmware version are you currently on? Glenn seemed pretty convinced it was the battery for me. Your issue sounds different than what i was experiencing but i will keep and eye on mine. So far so good for me after new battery with continued tests. I also up’ed to 2.05

Wanted to report back i have replaced the internal coin battery deoxing contacts prior and photos below lead me to believe mfg defect in the battery considering my unit was received in October last year. I was spooked because when I first fired it up with the new battery I got the warnings again, then it hit me that most likely that’s because it’s the first time the clockchip was firing up under new power. Fingers crossed so far multiple attempts to duplicate and no warnings so I believe I am all fixed up One other thing that is noteworthy - radial buttons F7 and F10 are affected by the depth of the screws in the front and back panels just below the respective buttons! just need to make sure you keep track of the slightly smaller screws for those old: 2.75 new: 3.24

Brilliant John thanks for the tip. With the work it takes to get to this battery, it is certainly worth the extra effort to maintain the contacts for longevity. I just bought two batteries since it was so hard to find I will have a future back up. My hunch is voltage of the orig batt too low maybe a battery defect from the mfg. Uncommon but certainly a possibility. I think i do have a small tube pf the deoxit stuff

curious if anyone has had any issues with keeping time with the internal battery. It is totally random where i get a warning at startup and my time resets to zero and date 01/01/2000. sometimes i get the warning but it keeps all settings. I had talked to Glenn about this and he told me how to get to the battery to check it. I pulled it, cleaned it off, checked voltage - it says 2.80v. should these batts read 3.0v or more? i put back in to test and it fit snug as it seemed it should. it did still happen at least once during tests where it reset. then again where timecode reset but date and time held. It seems to go back to last memory recall settings for folder, scene n take, and trim n fader settings but keeps outputs and rec tracks. I will try a brand new batt today (hot damn are these hard to find locally, headed to batteries plus as soon as they open) and later calling them if still having trouble but wanted to check here to see if i am overlooking anything. -Ken