SeeKai

They are glued shut. Get yourself some molegrips, something to grip and protect the metal parts (I used some rubber sheet) and force it open. If it's really not going try carefully heating it up a bit with a heat gun.

Please keep in mind that the bodypack receiver is designed to be a mic level device. You can get it a little north of mic level but not enough (IMHO) to drive headphones to any useful level. In theory you would have to amplify the signal somehow, but that's way outside the scope of my knowledge and messing about with SMD boards is not without risk. Hope that's relevant.

Avoid. Quality and longevity is nowhere near the same. You wouldn't save money by having knock off gear for your mics, recorder or timecode hardware. Same thing applies to your cables!

Hi Neil, There are various methods, each to their own. But here's one that works. Turn iron up to max temp - apply a large blob of solder to the iron tip. Push the unstripped core into the blob - with the right technique and timing, the inner conductor will tin and the jacket will shrink back. Takes a bit of practice but it does work - there is a technique to it that doesn't come without a lot of practice (save your offcuts for said practicing). re: the other stuff about expensive tooling, If you meant your comment about becoming a pro wireman (as in wiring for others, not just your own stuff) it's a necessary step to buy a lot of specific, expensive tooling, often for just one purpose. You'll also have to do away with lead solder if you want to be ROHS compliant here in Europe. best of luck!

PFB.00.303.CLAD32 or something to that effect, your lemo dealer should be able to correct it. I use these to build adapters all the time and they work great!

Mogami 2642. 7 core plus shield. Available from HHB here in the UK, I imagine mogami website could identify your local supplier. S

I just find it simpler and faster than using the little bracket included in the rean plugs, which can be a real PITA.

Nice builds all - I have tried a few different methods over time but I've struggled to get the necessary weight into them - one of the benefits of the SGS lav bullet is that it's really damn heavy for it's size! Though my lighter DIY ones worked well enough I always wish they were heavier. What are your experiences?

Me too! What I also really like is the ability to crimp the shield wire to the shell. Each to their own though.

+1. I've been dying to see how you got on with this one. Fascinating stuff! Best, s.

these are for TC:

Terrible news! I was genuinely saddened to hear this. I'm off to watch the Doomsday Machine and his memorable standoff with Commodore Matt Decker. RIP a terrific actor and all round great guy.

Those of you using lavs as the slate mic, is that including some sort of inline power supply? From memory the slate mic input is balanced and offers 12v powering (presumably phantom). I have an Me3 (me2 but with headband and gooseneck) that I'd like to repurpose as a 664 slate mic but thought that it was incompatible with the slate mic input and would need some kind of phantom - electret convertor in there somewhere... S.

Hey Glen, I can service it, but it would require a return to the mothership. Similar build to the lo pro XLRs in this section. So not field serviceable sadly. But damn low profile Diane, Damn low.

Thanks Robert I did read that thread as part of my research, but for some reason (which I genuinely can't really articulate - call it a gut feeling of sorts) I felt like starting a new thread.

Interesting - I've been thinking about this all day and wiring ground to pin 7 would kind of echo the hirose layout and also provide a solid "anchor" allowing you to minimise any strain on the cores carrying audio. I made one of these and sent it off to NZ, where the local wireman (apologies for the gender specific term) uses the pin 7 as ground and pins Fortunately my buyer appears to be able to get the XLR7 rewired with minimal problems, though I did offer to cover the labour cost. Looking forward to more replies on this. Eric I like neutricon but having switched to XLR 7 I get the same easy interconnection in a cheaper and more widely available connector without having to make up the female end from 7 different parts (and also no having to melt bigger holes in the neutricon boot). PSC and Remote audio having different wiring schemes would appear to be a real pest - thanks for the heads up on this. I'd also be interested in the origin of the different wiring schemes, as I'd like to assume that it's based on something other than locking buyers into any particular brand of cables.

Hey gang, When it comes to umbilicals and breakaway snakes, hirose and tajimi standards have conveniently been easy to source thanks to SQN and Sound Devices integrating these connections into their mixer recorders. XLR7 connectors are sourcable, durable and easy to connect/disconnect with one hand, but from what I can tell there is less of an established standard wiring scheme for these. Are you all up for a "roll call" of sorts? I instinctively wire them like this: 1 Ground 2 L+ 3 L - 4 R + 5 R - 6 return L 7 return R However some people wire them with the ground as pin 7, and then L/R return connections from 1 through 6. I love that ^ from a manufacturing perspective as it makes working with the cable cores a lot easier, but like my initial wiring scheme because it follows the pin 1 = ground convention and putting the balanced outs before the return. Who's up for comparing notes on these? It would be nice if all our snakes and tails matched, would it not? I'm writing to a few manufacturers to see what their pin out standards are - will report in due course. Cheers S.

Lord of the Rings The Land Before Time Nutty Professor 2: The Klumps Free Willy Let's Be Cops I don't think I'm getting this....

Hi Derek, "Better performance" refers to a few things: - the higher quality of the moving parts. - the connector locking ring doesn't loosen by itself, it's a good tight lock. - the connector shell doesn't twist easily once tightened and doesn't require any additional heatshrink to keep it from being loosened accidentally when unplugging a mic (those with experience of the remote audio connectors will understand this). - it's considerably more rugged than any other locking TRS plug out there. So I mean physical performance as a connector rather than anything audio-wise. I agree with your sentiments re: switchcraft TA3. Most of my customers prefer Rean so I use those on a lot of cables but my personal choice is always switchcraft. My least favourite thing about the reans is the attachment for connecting the shield to the shell. I don't feel that it makes for a smooth assembly unless your cable stock has a separate drain wire. BTW if you are unsatisfied with the strength of the crimp inside your TA3 then a good quality piece of adhesive lined heatshrink over the cable boot and cable jacket can help ruggedise your assembly.

Hi All, Here is an article I contributed to on how to identify the fake 416s. Though the majority of users on this site will buy their mics new or from a trusted usual suspect it's still an interesting read and a great reference for checking out any second hand items on ebay or a private sale. http://www.ps-news.net/2015/01/28/identify-fake-sennheiser-mkh-416/

I'd use the switchcraft ones for everything if I could afford it. When I ran G3s with cos 11s the difference in performance was huge. Just a really terrific connector.

Sorry Glen my bad - remote audio do the locking jack not rean. The shell has very similar markings to that of a rean plug - you can by remote audio plugs and switchcraft ones at Trew, Toronto.

Hi Angelo, I had the misfortune of encountering a fake. The tube was identical - only after the mic started picking up the local radio station did I open up the mic with a friend to see the heinous garbage that was inside it. There are many ways to spot the fakes and a colleague is working on a blog post(with some small contributions from me) to outline them all for anyone who may have bought one.

The locking TRS connectors are brand called "pro signal" although I believe they may be non OEM parts that are sold by a few different brands under their own names. Remote Audio do a locking 3.5 jack if you're more comfortable with a recognisable brand name. Switchcraft make a superb locking jack connector, which is by far my favourite - part number is 35HDLNAU. They are just excellent quality, but are priced accordingly. Hopefully that helps - none of them are manufactured "low profile", these are modifications that members here have done themselves.

Which one are you asking about post78? I've gotten lost in all the pictures and comments.