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  1. After an outcry from iPhone users that Apple is slowing down older iPhones to prolong battery life, the Verge is reporting: Apple says that batteries are “consumable components,” and is offering anyone with an iPhone 6 or later a battery replacement for $29 starting in late January through December 2018 — a discount of $50 from the usual replacement cost. Apple’s also promising to add features to iOS that provide more information about the battery health in early 2018, so that users are aware of when their batteries are no longer capable of supporting maximum phone performance. Visit Apple’s website for more info: https://www.apple.com/iphone-battery-and-performance/ This would be a great way to extend the useable life of older devices still in workflows.
  2. I thought I'd share my opinions on this lightweight battery I came across. Introduction: This is a mini V-lock battery called the FXLion Nano One. It has D-tap, USB-A and USB-C for powering various devices. It's very flexible as it can be charged in a standard V-lock charger, via D-tap, AND USB! So I recently upgraded from the MixPre-6 to a MixPre-10 II and needed a "real" battery instead of a USB power bank. Since I have various video gear anyway, I wanted something I could throw on a LED-light if needed etc. Performance: I tested an "average" use case on the MixPre-10, recording 2 Phantom mics, 2 radio mics, and the LR Mix. After a little more than 6 hours and 30 minutes of recording, the battery started flashing as the voltage dropped below 12V. I'm sure it could have squeezed out a few more minutes but I wouldn't risk it. I was using it with a D-tap to 4-pin Hirose cable. So a pair of these would get you through a production day, especially if you can keep the other one charging. Your mileage will vary depending on the gear you're powering, of course. Conclusion: It's not exactly a low-budget solution (I paid about 140€ excl. VAT per one), however, you can get away without buying a separate charger / battery cups etc. I think it's a nice intermediate alternative to the NP / smart battery systems on smaller bag setups. I hope at least one of you finds this useful or interesting. 🙂 Thanks!
  3. I thought I'd start a new thread so it would be easy to find and be more easily searchable. So far the Quantum alkaline AA's are looking very good; 2.2 Ah for the Quantum versus 1.2 Ah for a Panasonic AA at a heavy drain (SM transmitter) of 400 mAh. That's an 83% improvement. (!) The second run is at 500 mAh and I got 2 Ah. This is an SM drain toward the end of the battery life. Pretty impressive. I still have to run the Panasonic at 500 mAh but it will probably only make 1 Ah. Adding to my original post, the Panasonic at 500 mAh made 1.1 Ah while the Quantum made 2.0 Ah for an 82% advantage again. It looks like the Quantum claims are very real. In an SM at 100 mW, the Panasonics ran for 97 minutes until the SM shutdown. The Quantums ran for 175 minutes. This is an advantage of 80%, in line with the precision battery load. I hope Duracell doesn't go nuts with the pricing. Best Regards, Larry Fisher Lectrosonics
  4. Hi! I have three wireless systems from Audio Limited Envoy series that supports external powering. The thing is that two of the recievers are CXIR and supports power between 7-18 volts, and one MXIR that only supports 7-12 volts. The current draw is 55-150mah from the recievers. I am looking for a solution to externally power all the three from one battery. I have looked at some NP style 11.1 volt batteries, as well as Li-on batterys such as the Inspired Energy ones. I've also looked at the 14.4 volts NP style batteries, but then I have to step down the 14.4 volts to 12 in a way that still makes the battery happy. Have looked into some RC NiMH packs as well but I miss the indicator feature of those. I have all the cables for this, but I would love to get some advice of how to do this in a good and safe way. Thanks.
  5. I have been wanting to build an external battery to use with my Zaxcom bag rig consisting of a Nomad 10 and Zax wires (QrX200 and 2 TRX's) for days when I am not needing to carry the bag and I can use my small cart. I'd like to keep in a small pelican type case and I am thinking along the lines of making it so I can power to my BDS so it would be a fast switch over from my bag batteries. I've been doing my own research around and trying to figure out the right setup when it comes to voltage, watts, amps, etc. I am a complete amateur at this so please forgive my ignorance. Like I said I have done some research but I wanted to also get some advice from the great sound community we have here. I have also tried to seek out past posts on here but haven't really found quite what I am looking for. I did find this post that seemed promising. http://jwsoundgroup.net/index.php?/topic/9087-dc-pelican-battery/& Your vast and valuable knowledge is most appreciated. Thanks.
  6. I'm just curious if folks have seen a marked improvement in battery life on the 744T when an SSD was used. Thanks, Michael http://rabbitearsaudio.com
  7. Seeking user feedback about these models. Remote audio claims they are lighter than competition, but I have yet to find specs online. Are users pairing these with Meon's, using them stand-alone, or coupling with regulators? Thanks
  8. Hi, Has anyone had any experience using portable car jump starter power bank’s as an external battery for their location sound equipment? I’m looking for a budget external battery for my basic boom and lav kit and have come across these. It seems to have a good capacity, output’s 12v, fairly light weight and be very affordable compared to NP1 solutions. Or am I missing something? Here are some example’s of the product: http://www.ebay.com/itm/68800mAh-4USB-Multi-Function-Car-Jump-Starter-Power-Bank-Rechargable-Battery-12V-/371500798517?hash=item567f2c5235:g:AYoAAOSw2GlXKWrt&item=371500798517&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/68800mAh-4USB-Car-Jump-Starter-Emergency-Charger-Booster-Power-Bank-Battery-SOS-/381494287043?hash=item58d2d4dac3:g:SEIAAOSwKfVXFY4s&item=381494287043&vxp=mtr http://www.amazon.com/T-Face-Multi-Function-68800mAh-Starter-Charger/dp/B01DITJA64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463578981&sr=8-1&keywords=jump+starter+power+bank+68800 http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Portable-20000mAh-Multi-Function-20000MAH/dp/B013I9KPOU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1463578909&sr=8-13&keywords=jump+starter+power+bank Regards, Luke
  9. Hi! Im planning to solder a 4 pin Hirose connector to the negative and positive wires of this battery holder, planning to make this a "just in case" spare battery if i run out of NP1 during a shoot. Id like to know if, coz i dont have a 4 pin hirose connector yet, which one will be the positive side of that and which one will be the negative in the hirose? Or will it just any side? Attached to this post is the battery holder that im saying. Thank you so much.
  10. I recently dropped and NP1 on a shoot, and found a crack on the shell that exposes a bit of the battery near the connections. For now, I've carefully super glued the thing together, but I know that wont last. Is it possible for me to just buy another NP1 plastic shell to re-house the battery? Is that even possible to swap it?
  11. First outing yesterday for my little remote switch and battery distribution system that I cobbled together from bits I've had lying around for a year or two. The remote switch and voltage display clips neatly into a Petrol pouch and the wiring runs into the bag to my Tracer LiPo 10Ah battery and a simple, fused four-way Hirose distribution box. (I found the blue Deltron box on Ebay as part of a set of five for £10 - I'm keeping a couple of the others, but in anyone in the UK wants one or both of the remaining two for a couple of quid, let me know.) Battery input to the remote switch is via a 4 pin XLR and from the switch to the distribution box, a locking DC barrel connector. The main switch is on the side of the box and is recessed when in the on position, so it can't be accidentally knocked, and the voltage display is checked via a momentary switch. I'm going to add a strip of ND to the side of the box with voltage display, just to make it look a bit neater as the box got a bit beaten up when I was making the rectangular cut-out, which was the most difficult part, even with a Dremel. The whole thing works very nicely and the battery gives me over six hours powering a 744T and my Soundfield ST450. A very satisfying little project that kept me occupied during a week of theatre producer nonsense. All the best, John
  12. The 4 hour battery life on the SSM was the drawback that kept being repeated (politely) in threads and posts. We found a different battery that is 10 thousandths thicker but has 40% more capacity. At the same time, we added a new power supply chip that can run both buck and boost. So it can provide 3.3 Volts whether the battery is a fresh charged 4.2 Volts or nearly run down at 3 Volts. Note that one voltage case is higher than the desired output of 3.3 Volts and the other case is below. Hence a buck and boost power supply. That additional range gives us about another 10% of battery life. All in all, the SSM battery life is now 6 hours and 1 minute, worst case drain. We fought for that minute so the sales hawksters could claim "more than 6 hours". We had to scrap the original cases and start machining all over again since the contacts are spaced a little differently and this will add 2 weeks to the release. I would have added this to the previous thread but JWS is a little confusing today. Best Regards, Larry Fisher Lectrosonics
  13. The 4 hour battery life on the SSM was the drawback that kept being repeated (politely) in threads and posts. We found a different battery that is 10 thousandths thicker but has 40% more capacity. At the same time, we added a new power supply chip that can run both buck and boost. So it can provide 3.3 Volts whether the battery is a fresh charged 4.2 Volts or nearly run down at 3 Volts. Note that one voltage case is higher than the desired output of 3.3 Volts and the other case is below. Hence a buck and boost power supply. That additional range gives us about another 10% of battery life. All in all, the SSM battery life is now 6 hours and 1 minute, worst case drain. We fought for that minute so the sales hawksters could claim "more than 6 hours". We had to scrap the original cases and start machining all over again since the contacts are spaced a little differently and this will add 2 weeks to the release. I would have added this to the previous thread but JWS is a little confusing today. Best Regards, Larry Fisher Lectrosonics
  14. Hello Chaps Im in need of a tutorial on how to change my internal AA battery in my 702T machine. Ive never attempted it before and wanted to research the procedure first. Are there any youtube or videos on JW that show this procedure ? Im led to believe that its not a complex task and that why Im feeling bold enough to open the machine myself. Many thanks Greg Albert #fromsouthafrica
  15. The DuoPack is now in stock at Lectro. Accepts SR/SR5P Series slot receivers Dual 3.7V Li-Poly 3000mAh batteries Up to 17 hours operating time per charge Built-in recharging circuitry Dual, balanced audio outputs The DUOPACK adds a rechargeable battery pack to an SR Series receiver, allowing it to operate as a stand-alone device, further expanding the versatility of this product family. Two lithium-polymer flat battery packs, one on each side of the assembly, provide enough capacity to operate the receiver for up to 17 hours per charge. The control and connector panel includes audio and power connectors, an operating mode switch and battery charging circuitry. The unit can be operated from the internal batteries with an external power supply connected, or from external DC only. http://www.lectrosonics.com/US/Wireless-IFB/product/482-duopack.html Best Regards, Larry Fisher Lectrosonics
  16. Another thread was talking about lithium ion batteries and overheating. This example wasn't meant to perform a test on the batteries but is what happens when you misread centigrade for Fahrenheit on your temperature chamber. You get two very distorted batteries and singed fingers. One of the engineers Monday, misread the readout while testing two devices at 140 degrees. He didn't realize the error until he picked up the devices and scorched some finger tips. 140 C of course is 284 F. To widespread surprise, the units still worked and so did the batteries, though now they don't fit in the battery compartment very well. We also now know that the LCD gets very fuzzy at 284 F. Now you know what we mean by half baked designs. Best Regards, Larry Fisher Lectrosonics
  17. Hey Everyone, Just want to hear your opinion on a few things: 1. What is the best position for the LED power status indicator on a NP battery? 2. If a DC power connector was available, what type and where would you like it (D-Tap or Hirose, left/right side, top, etc.)? Thanks! -Zack
  18. Hi I´ve been testing Np 1 Lithium Li-ion Ultimate NPLU-84. 14.8 V 84 Wh from Pink Noise. New battery and fully charge with my old IDX KL-4 charger. The test was Sound Devices 664 with 2 mic. phantom power ( Schoeps MK 41 and Sennheiser MKH 70). And power for two Audio Limit 2040. At 8.15 AM I arm four tracks and hit the recorder button . I was recording constantly and stop for lunch12.30 PM where I power down the lot. At 13.10 PM I power up everything and was recording again constantly. At 17:00 PM I have my first warning for low power. I keep on recording and at 18.20 the SD 664 stop. Warning low power not able to record. The SD 664 keep the files intact. Very nice. Note I was recording indoor, 20 Celsius ( 68 F ) I was recording 9 hours and 25 min with one NP1 , two phantom power mic ( 48 V ) and power for two Audio Limit 2040 receiver. I do find this very good, and looking forward to try them outside in the cold winter time here in Denmark. ms
  19. Announcing new Remote Audio NP-1 battery cups with improved back plate design. Remote Audio is now implementing a new back plate design on all of its NP-1 battery cup products. The new back plate is made of ABS plastic and custom molded to fit our NP-1 cups. It affixes to the cup with self-tapping screws and is designed to be a permanent replacement to the previous adhesive back plate. If you have an existing back plate that is peeling or needs repair, we are offering new back plates at no charge for a limited time. You have the following options: 1) You may send your peeling NP-1 cups to Remote Audio for upgrade. We will remove the old adhesive back plates and install new ones at no charge. Please contact us at info@remoteaudio.com or call 615-256-3513 for a Return Authorization number. OR 2) You may request an upgrade kit that contains the new back plate and mounting screws. The screws require a Torx #8 driver for proper assembly (not included). To request your kit, contact us at info@remoteaudio.com or call 615-256-3513. We will ship the kit with instructions via USPS at no charge. Limit two (2) kits per person. Additional kits are $3. Newly manufactured units will include this new back plate design and be available to dealers shortly.
  20. Okay, so I just wanted to through this out there to see that you all though. I have been looking for a good and less expensive than the NP-1 route to power the gear in my bag and have though of something interesting. But before I go trying something dumb and breaking my new toys, I thought Id post all about it here and see what you guys came back with. So here we go: One of my deepest passions in life has always been photography and pretty much all areas of it at that. The area in particular that got me thinking was that of on location portraiture. Specifically the power sources photographers need and use to power profressional studio strobes. In my on location portraiture gear kit, I own a couple portable battery powered inverters that I use to drive my stobes. Now the part that go me thinking was the Li-Ion batteries that these come with (and can be purchased separately) and their voltage output and capacity. Doing some reasearch I found that a standard and popular NP-1 style battery (in this case the IDX NP-L7S LINK) is a 14.6v, 4.6Ah (4600mAh) battery that yeilds 68Wh. I found the following equation to help me with some simple calculations: Wh = (mAh / 1000) * V Inserting the specs from the IDX NP-L7S battery we get: (4600/1000) * 14.6 = 4.6 * 14.6 = 67.16 which is approximately the quoted 68Wh Okay, so I just ran that calc to check the equation and verify some values. Now, the battery I found is a bit different shapped, but it offers the specs of 14.8v, 8.8Ah (8800mAh) yeilding what I calculate to be approx 130Wh. Heres the math: (8800/1000) * 14.8 = 8.8 * 14.8 = 130.24 which is approximately 130Wh Fine, so why go through all this trouble? Well, this battery I own is $89 and the charger, is $29. Thats a whole lot more appealing that the minimum of $200+ for an NP-1 battery and charger setup. And it fits nicely in the back pocket of a Petrol PS607 bag. The Battery: LINK The Charger: LINK So what Im thinking now is this: the connection on this battery is a standard crimp on connection type thats pretty cheap. Ill post a link when I find one, I just cant remember what that dang things are called at the moment, plus Ive had a couple beers at this point which isnt helping. But making a simple cable from these two connectors to say the Sound Devices Bare Hirose 4-pin HR10-7P-4P Power Connector (Pins 1(-) and 4(+) from the SD manual) LINK should be no problem at all. Or even cheaper here: LINK. And just like that you have a power source that is roughly twice the run time of an NP-1. Now the part Im having a bit of trouble with and that I hoping someone out there can help me out on is how do I wire this up to split the source so that I can power both a 702 and 302 from the same battery. Wiring two Hirose connections in parallel from the red and black connector (whatever its called) should do it right? At least thats what Im thinking. Ive attached a few pics of the various parts, including the battery shown fitted nicely in the back pouch of a Petrol PS607 bag. Now believe me, I know Im not the first to suggest some DIY battery combo, nor will I be the last. But the fact that this setup could potentially be cheaper and longer running than some other options makes it something at least to consider. Especially for me since I already own it! So, what do you guys think? Is it worth pursuing or am I just heading to blow up my 702?
  21. <p>Hello all,</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>I'm making a minimal-pack trip to the USA and have been looking for an alternative to the usual NP-1 suspects with regard to batteries. I've come across a company called Tracer</p> <p>(<a href="http://www.deben.com/tracer-battery-packs.html">http://www.deben.com/tracer-battery-packs.html</a>) which makes LiPo packs for the hunting community and at a reasonable price, 8AH/12v for around US$160, which seems like a good deal. I'm just wondering of anyone has any experience of using this type of battery on a home-brew BDS, or straight powering and, if so, if there's anything I should know about.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>It'll be used to power my ST450, which only uses 7 Watts, so it should give me a decent length of time per charge.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Any information or caveats much appreciated.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>John</p>
  22. What do you all do with your spent disposable batteries at the end of the day? I have a number of Powerex 2700 that I primarily use, but inevitably disposables come into play now and then. I know there are laws, certainly in CA, that mandate they be recycled. I've been just tossing them in the bottom of one of my cases and forgetting about them. So, today I finally re-organized my gear and half filled a shoe box with dead AA's I'll be looking for a place in NYC to drop them off, but was wondering what you all do with yours
  23. Hi everyone I have been in the look for a new mixer for the cart. I have been using a rental CL-9 and was thinking on buying one. But i hate the fact that i have to loose an iso for a talkback mic. So i'm thinking that if i'm going to loose an iso, at least i should gain better preamps and outputs, so i'm looking into an external mixer, like a cooper or audio developments. But i have seen a lot of people using the yamaha 01v96, or sonosax or similar. I would love the extra channels and outputs and all, but i'm just wondering, how do you power it on the cart? They only accept 120-240v, so do you use an inverter or similar? Thanks a lot Diego
  24. Dear community, I would like to make a simple "T" power supply for my old 416T, intended to be used on a wireless boom. I don't want to use a barrel style adapter, as that kind of adapter eats up lots of power just to convert the P48 to T12, and I don't want to be changing batteries on a plug-on TX every hour. Plus, using external power would allow me to use basically any TX. I already have a lightweight 12V Li-Ion rechargeable (which actually gave me the idea for that project), so that's no problem. However I can't find any reliable diagrams on the web, they all show the 180 Ohms resistors but differ widely in coupling capacitor values. Any pointers? THX in advance
  25. Would it be possible to add the voltage display to the main screen of your 411 receivers instead of the 'battery meter'? I find that number to be way more useful. Thanks.
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