Johnny Karlsson

Just get the cheapest one from the local store and use it only for this purpose then. Better than any other of the options above in my experience- and cheaper.

Simply use any cooking oil you probably already have in your kitchen. Canola, olive whatever will dissolve most adhesives. Follow with Clorox wipe, or basic soap and water.

I was sending tone, and going through a bunch of R1a’s to check that they were all tuned to the correct frequency by plugging in a headset (not wearing it, just holding it in hand, plugging in, turning on), one by one. Didn’t hear anything out of one of them, and assumed it was tuned to the wrong frequency. Upon checking, turns out it was on the correct one. Turning the volume knob all the way up, I could hear tone, but way too low. Now, before sending it in, is this one of those hidden settings that happens when someone pushes the buttons in some certain “secret “ way to enable mic level, and you need to do some “turn on while holding the button, turn off 4seconds, turn on/off/on/off five times…” ?? Hah! If someone knows please let me know. Thanks.

Apogee Duet. Retails for $700, but could maybe find a used one. Or if you have been happy with the Scarlett, maybe get the current version…?

That’s exactly what I used to say until I got one. Since then, I have had several jobs that needed more than 12. I even had to get the +4 plugin for the 888 at one point for a job where I needed 17 channels. These other controllers mentioned here have linear faders, but not much else in terms of shortcuts, and the Sonosax is nice, but does not even have trim knobs. The CL-16 is pretty much the same size as the CL-12, I mean, it fits on a sliding rack shelf. And you get so much added functionality with shortcuts and speed up many things, like arming/un-arming, muting/un-muting tracks, accessing buses, outputs, eq, comms, etc. Sorry if I sound like I’m trying to sell you on one lol, but just my 2cents based on my own experience.

CL-16. I get that that's not what you are after, but that's my answer. With the XL-AES and +4 plugin, your 833 is a 12 channel, 16 track mixer-recorder, with full dedicated first party control. At one point I got a Studiologic SL MixFace, and it worked, but I only used it on one job. If anyone wants it, I could sell it. Just let me know.

I have gone through 5 or 6 of the L7s, they lasted 10+ years, before they either started acting weird (endless charging and getting super hot yikes!) , or completely died. I currently have one or two that still work. Been using the 9X for several years now, charging with the 2-slot, as well as two of the d-tap chargers. No problems at all (so far). When you say the “main connector stopped providing power “, are you talking about the d-tap connector, or the NP-cup side? Also, is that even when it’s charged up? Do the green lights on the battery light up when you push the test button ?

But this way - the problem is that if you get interference, you wouldn't know if it's on the way to the camera, or on the way back to your return. So IMO, if I'm wireless hopping to a camera, whatever is recorded on the camera is considered scratch track for reference/sync purposes to sync up the sound recorded on my recorder. You might get lucky, but there is no way to guarantee a 100% clean transmission (no matter what wireless system you're using, but with cheap ones in particular), especially if you are moving around outside in the wild world of RF. In addition; if you place a transmitter right next to your receiver on the camera, you are adding more RF in close proximity, meaning you'll likely have more problems.

I set the Lectros to Lithium when using these, but the thing is, these batteries stay constant at 1.5V, and then when they start to get "low", they drop to 1.2-ish Volts. For my Tx that means I have about 45 min left, which gives me plenty of time (for most situations) to swap battery whenever next seems like a good opportunity.

And Dante, and antenna bias power, and antenna loop out for daisy chaining another unit (no need for additional distro), and both USB and network connection for Wireless Designer (free) frequency coordination software, and easy at home firmware updates….

Finally something that goes for what producers *think* sound gear costs. And seems super reliable and great without having to worry about turning knobs, because it will be perfect automatically. On a more serious note, I think the race to the bottom is heavily promoted in this video. And it’s just depressing with the way things are already going at this time. “Yeah, let’s get this and some wireless from AliExpress and we can have the DP take care of sound and gaffer duties, (and apparently catering as well).” IDK, maybe it’s time to retire…

Thanks, Doc!

Um… I think that’s speaker cable. Get 20m of Canare star quad bulk cable, and some XLRF and XLRM connectors and solder up a couple good ones for yourself. Even if you have never done it before, you can watch a couple YouTube videos and be able to get it done. Even including a good quality solder iron and some good quality tin, you’ll spend less than what those “audiophile” ropes cost.

Oh no. This forum really is/has always been a special place thanks to Jeff. I am sad to hear this. I learned so many things hanging out here when I was starting out. I can't even find words.

Well, I am probably not the only one who has noticed that everything always works perfectly in these demo presentations. But - when you try it on a real thing, it never really works great, or takes a lot of manual tweaking to get a decent result. (Anyone remember how great Siri worked years ago in a presentation…?)