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Johnny Karlsson

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About Johnny Karlsson

  • Birthday March 15

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  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Interests
    Music, Food, Beer, Whiskey, Gear, Nature, Travel, Guitars, Technology, Fishing, Coffee, anything new... or old....
  • About
    Sound Mixer for TV, Commercials, Film, ENG, BTS, EPK etc. - Cart and/or Bag | | FCC Call Sign: WREL398 | | IATSE Local 695 Y-8 Boom Operator | | Dante Certification Level 2 | |
  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. I had good results with the IKEA Ladda 2450, but according to others, they have changed them recently and supposed to not be as good anymore (?) I can’t confirm or deny that, since I haven’t tried the new ones myself. Currently using Eneloop Pro 2500mah with good results. - Single battery transmitter (SMV) runs for over 4h, but have not tested running it off the rails to get actual runtime yet. - Dual battery (SMQV) ran for about 8h 30min last time I did a full test.
  2. That’s probably a bit optimistic. They will need time to figure out how to make it run slow and inefficient on these machines. Otherwise nobody will buy their hardware. Not at all. Btw, there’s no 15” anymore. 14” or 16”.
  3. Spin - Early versions of SRC had some problems with out of band RFI, like walkies. After I sent mine back to the mothership for some surgery, they have been solid ever since. Contact Lectro service department, they can check the serial number to see if your unit needs an update. - Do you scan for clear frequencies and coordinate with something like FreqFinder?
  4. I would say, the 60xx are essentially the same in terms of sound and settings, so if you are used to the 40xx, you'll probably won't need to make any changes. The main difference is they are smaller in size. I use both 4061and 6061, and to me they are interchangeable.
  5. I agree with Derek and Olle. Also - the LR receiver has the display on the side and the output connector on top of the unit. This may be fine if you are using it as a hop mounted on the side of a camera, but if you put it in a bag, perhaps not ideal.
  6. I would recommend doing Level 1 and 2 on the Audinate website. It’s free and will help understand all the routing etc. https://www.audinate.com/learning/training-certification/dante-certification-program?link=hm-r4-r-mc1
  7. Good to know! Makes me feel even better about these.
  8. Fits in regular Comtek pouches!
  9. All my above cautions regarding the plastic may be totally unwarranted. And with all that said, I will absolutely pick up a few more of these in the near future. They do sound very good. Thank you Gordon, Larry and everyone at Lectrosonics for making this possible!
  10. Hey Cody, I recently picked one up to try it out. My impressions after using it on a few jobs - The good: - Sounds better than R1a, with a quieter noise floor. - 2x AA rechargeable (included) lasts a full day. - It's wide-band A1 or B1 and compatible with any matching Lectro Tx in IFB mode. The potentially not so great: - The build quality worries me a bit. This may or may not prove to be true with time, but it feels like the plastic is pretty "thin", and therefore might break if dropped (compared to an R1a, which Is built like a little tank). The IFBlue is perhaps more like a Comtek in that sense. The battery door and the belt-clip are offered as replacement parts...
  11. Digging this one up again (taking cover) - I found another interesting take on this from a electrical engineering forum: ”If you have a cable that connects the shells of both connectors together, that is a risk of electric shock, because if you hold one end of the cable from the metal shell when connecting it, and the other end is connected to malfunctioning equipment or something causes the wire to become contact with hazardous voltages, that's dangerous. It is simply better to leave the metal shell to be not connected to the cable at all, so you would have to be touching the pins in the connector for it to be dangerous.” Link to that complete discussion: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/574776/why-should-the-shell-of-an-xlr-connector-not-be-connected-to-pin-1
  12. I have read that it’s ok to do with a proper antenna combiner. Personally, I prefer to keep transmitting antennas separated and on different height planes. Probably just voodoo superstition in my part…
  13. I got the AirPods Pro right when they were first released. I haven’t had people saying anything about me sounding weird talking on the phone - however I had a crackling noise in my ears - this was happening regardless if I was talking on the phone, playing music or not playing anything at all, just silence. Simply moving my head, crackle happened. This was only in the left ear first. Had the left bud replaced. Then right ear had the same problem about a month later. Apple replaced that one too. Then the left one again and then lastly the right one again(!) I asked them if I’m simply having extremely bad luck since I’m not playing anything very loud, and keep them clean and safe in their case etc. Then they finally acknowledged that it was a known problem. At that time they had me send in the whole set, including the charging case. After that, the current replacement has been fine and seems like they have finally fixed the issues. So if anyone has problems with theirs, I would recommend checking with Apple support (I did the chat and described my issues). They seem to be quite good about replacing things and want to make sure you’re happy.
  14. Not sure what you mean there, James - - I set the rotary switch on the side of the camera (with options of Mic/Line/AES) to LINE. Then in the display meters, set to "manual", lined up -20 with tone. On this particular job, the camera was locked off on sticks in a white syc for 3 days, so I just cabled up to it from the 888 and since I could, would check the return once in a while - and nothing changed in terms of settings... but either way - camera sound was just for reference / syncing purposes. We had a TC box on the camera, and also using TC Slate, so even if the on-camera sound would have been unusable, post should still be able to figure it out. I thought it was surprising that an Arri camera wouldn't take a "normal" professional line level signal, but had to be fed -10dB. And then this thread came up. And this was actually the first time in probably at least 3-4 years that I've seen an Amira on job.
  15. I worked with an Amira last week. It looked “old” and well worn. After initial fiddling, I ended up sending -10 from the 888 and everything worked fine. I would say hardware/barrel pads only make sense if you are using a mixer with no other output options than full Line level. Maybe also with something like a 302 which is a bit of a project to change the output levels on.
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