Johnny Karlsson

The website is still up. There was however a pretty long thread in one of the FB groups recently that seemed to indicate a lot of problems since ownership had changed (I think maybe last year?) Apparently the new owner has no background in our business.

“Foggier Window” by Monkish in Torrance. Delicious. Probably the best hazy IPA have ever tasted.

You can still boost trim levels of ch 7-11 on the 664 as well, by going into each fat channel and using the Select knob to adjust trim.

Are you using the direct outs? If so, you are basically using the preamps on the 552 to drive inputs 7-11 on the 664. The direct outs on the 552 should be set to pre-fader. If this is what you are doing, use the trim knobs on the 552 to boost the level.

Yeah….. Kester 44 Solder Wire, 63/37 0.031-in, RMA Rosin, 1-ounce Tube is $12.50 on Amayzon. I’m sticking to that, an open window, holding my breath and hoping for the best lol.

Well, the headphones / cable is also the antenna...

So diluting the value of art in order to save money? Haha! I'm not sure I agree this is the same thing as taking a photo vs painted portrait. Check this out; https://www.wsj.com/articles/i-cloned-myself-with-ai-she-fooled-my-bank-and-my-family-356bd1a3

Maybe… but would you feel that listening to an audio book read by AI with the sound of a famous person’s voice is something you would buy? Isn’t the selling point that “your favorite person” is actually the one reading the book in the way that they interpret the story? Maybe it’s just me, but I would probably have a hard time focusing on the story, being distracted by the fact that “it really sounds like so and so”. And it’s kinda creepy, too haha!

And, additional testing shows the R1a will NOT work with regular wiring. Needs ground tied to pin 3. Hope this helps someone.

Ok, I just got back and did some tests here. All cables I have on hand, some wired the way as I described above - AND the regular wiring as you describe - all work with a PR-216 plugged in to an XLR (line level) on my mixer. Not sure why, but over a decade ago when I had the “specific” cable made, I was told that’s how it needs to be. And weirdly, I did have situations where that particular cable worked on a camera, when the regular cables did not.

I made those cables, and no they do not have 2 and 3 tied together. In what scenario would one do that?

Ok, but that looks like the regular way you would wire a balanced cable. So when you plug in to a balanced XLR on the camera, pin 2 and 3 are now out of phase - the Comtek output is not balanced. I have several cables wired that way, and they work just fine with using a UCR100 as a reference hop, but when I tried using those cables with a Comtek or R1a, there’s no signal - just as the OP is experiencing. When I switched to the wiring I posted above - it worked. BTW - Comtek sells a cable with an RF filter built in for this purpose.

I believe that’s incorrect. I just now tested a cable that I had specifically made for this purpose years ago. Here is the pin out: T - XLR 2 R - XLR 1+3 S - XLR 1+3

The Documentary Sound Guy is right about the cable. It needs to be specifically wired for outputting Comtek to XLR. A regular TRS to XLR won’t work correctly. - I could be wrong, but I have a feeling the same is true for using an R1a in the same way. Can’t remember the exact pin out, but I’m sure you can look it up online. It has to do with the output being mono, but it’s made so that you can plug in stereo headphones and get the mono sound in both ears.

Ok copy that. Sorry Jon, I am out of ideas. And totally agree - none of it makes sense. Including the random time duration each license is valid.