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Johnny Karlsson

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Everything posted by Johnny Karlsson

  1. You have good mics. You have a 552 - that’s 5x good pre-amps with direct outputs. My 2c: I would suggest going with a good converter/interface, such as the ones from UA, or Apogee and record to a DAW (If you don’t already have them, buy or make 5x TA3 to XLR cables). Seeing the you are recording in “good sounding rooms”, I feel there’s no real need for a portable recorder. Plus with a DAW, it’s much more practical for overdubs, punching in etc. And I could be wrong, but when you do final mixing/mastering you would likely be doing that in a DAW anyway. If you’re set on using a portable recorder, I would recommend looking at a MixPre 10 with the music plug-in.
  2. 100% agreed. Only difference is TS-3EL here, otherwise same. I am all for new tech when it can help, but in this case see no reason to bring in BT and apps. —> Jam and verify, then forget about it for the rest of the day. I used to occasionally get an AC coming for a new jam because they had mistaken the on/off switch on the slate for the backlight switch, but ever since the switches got labeled with nice big p-touch stickers, that problem seems to have stopped, or at least been minimized.
  3. The M216 is putting out 10mw, but for a bag situation can work just fine, provided that the PR216s are pretty close. If you are on a cart, go with a BST Basestation, it’ cranks out 100mw, which can provide clean signal quite far, especially if you rig the antenna up on a mast above people’s heads.
  4. Ah ok, copy. I didn't read very closely, just kinda skimmed over it. Thanks for clarifying.
  5. Not sure if I’m reading it correctly, but looks like it was just renewed (?)
  6. And in Norway, (sometimes) just bread with cheese qualifies as a "sandwich".
  7. With 20x wires, make sure you get to bring on at least 2x qualified assistants.
  8. The faders on the CL-16 are P&G, which was the same on the CL-12 Alaia, but I believe the standard CL-12 had different faders, but as Derek said above email SD would be best.
  9. Hi Rafael As someone who grew up in Sweden, but have lived long enough in Southern California to be used to milder weather, I just literally got back from a week in Montreal, Canada. When I landed there, it was between -11C and -12C, but with some wind it "feels like" -18C (wind chill factor). But that's till pretty far from -30C ! I had on layers and bought a "trapper hat" almost half jokingly - it looks a bit goofy on me lol - but honestly was super happy that I had it with me. With even light wind, it makes it feel like the cold is "biting" the skin of your face, so I recommend a good scarf and hat, along with a wind proof coat with a hood. Hopefully, you will not spend a lot of time working outside in those conditions. Two very important things: 1. Layer up with breathable/moisture wicking layers, long underwear etc. If you are, for example hiking up a mountain side in warm clothes, carrying gear etc. you will get warm and sweat, so moisture wicking layers are important keep you dry, because if your clothes are getting wet from sweat, once you stand still, you will be miserably cold pretty quick. 2. Good boots will be your best friend. They need to keep your feet warm and dry. Should be light weight, but good insulation/waterproofing - look at something gore-tex. With grippy soles! Regarding RF, maybe someone else can chime in on what's legal etc, but I can only guess that it would be pretty clear scans, because there is not a lot of people way up in northern Norway.
  10. I just searched on Amazone and it showed tons of results in different widths…. What is the cloth tape you mentioned? Is it also made by MMM?
  11. Weird. Normally a 2U aluminum drawer would be half the weight of steel…. Like 7 pounds vs 14 pounds.
  12. The difference in weight is quite significant. Especially when you have a follow cart with 4-5 rack mount drawers.
  13. I think it’s unnecessary to point out other people’s “mistakes”. If you weren’t there on the day and you don’t know what the circumstances were, it’s not cool to post photos to imply that you “know better”, or whatever. That in itself is actually bringing negative energy.
  14. https://a.co/d/e7LIPjh Also a version of a tripod chair, but much more comfortable and has back support. Made for sitting around waiting in a hunters blind for hours, I think. Not a nutcracker.
  15. The likelihood of all 3 pots going bad at the same time is pretty slim. I suspect there's something else going on.
  16. The pricing for repairs of discontinued products was addressed in the SD FB group, and when you read that explanation, it actually makes sense. Lots of allegations and conspiracy theories there, but I have copied/pasted Matt Anderson's comment below (I hope this is ok?), which may help see the full picture. If you use these devices for your business, you should make the money back reasonably quickly. This is all just one more reason to make sure we all charge appropriate rates and gear rentals, with future repairs calculated in. It’s inevitable that all gear will at some point need service, repairs, and eventually replacement. ==== From the FB page: "Matt Anderson - Hi all - thought I'd jump in here, since I'm pretty qualified to speak on this subject - having founded Sound Devices, being the original repair tech here, and still running the company after all these years. I'll also say for better or worse that I've been repairing equipment going on 50 years now which is a bit depressing since it means my physical age has far exceeded my mental age 🙂 At any rate, I understand that you think our rates are too high. However, the bottom line is that we're not trying to gouge, not trying to be monopolistic, or any of the other theories here. The fact of the matter is a few of things: Firstly, our company actually services equipment, and at the component level. I urge you to take note of how many other companies in any industry do this. [And we also have humans answering the phone and providing tech support - over my dead body will we ever get rid of that]. It is exceedingly difficult to find qualified techs/engineers who can repair products anymore. We are always looking (so if you know anyone, please send them our way). Our technicians are paid a good wage, and we offer health care and a number of other things which cost us a lot of money. And I'm not complaining about this at all - it is just a fact, and living expenses keep increasing, especially as of late. The techs that we employ are fantastic and very talented, however it has come an all-consuming job for our HR folks to find qualified people. Why? Because no one fixes anything any more, and because of that, there aren't people who learn how to fix things. I've taught all of my daughters how to solder and fix things, because I think the world needs more people who can fix things, but I digress. So -- good techs cost a lot of money, and we proudly employ them. Secondly, the cost of repairing *older* products is far more expensive than products we're still manufacturing. One of the reasons that we end up discontinuing products is that the parts get obsoleted, and we end up paying more and more for said parts. Sadly, this ends up consuming a good chunk of my time -- finding replacement parts and designing them in to existing products. This is the case with the 633, this is the case with the 970, etc. And the cost of repairing our newer products has gone up as well, because they are simply more complex, have tiny components, and take quite a bit of time to troubleshoot. I used to be able to repair our boards without glasses, and now I need a microscope. Partially, my increasingly poor eyesight, and partially our tiny parts! Thirdly, to keep an inventory of all of the repair parts (growing every day), and keep all of the test equipment on hand needed to verify that repairs are done correctly, is expensive. I've gone on a bit longer than I intended, but I started life as a repair tech, so this topic is near and dear to my heart. And I also feel strongly that we have an excellent repair group and we strive to have a better process than anyone else in the industry. Yes, our repairs are not cheap for all the above reasons, and we are trying to provide the highest quality service possible."
  17. Not sure what the exact size would be, but maybe this could be something to start your research: https://www.locationsound.com/psc-rubber-band-for-pscs-universal-shockmount--979
  18. I soldered the XLR cable, and bought the coax cables assembled from Markertek, they are Belden 1855A HD-SDI Sub-Mini RG59 BNC Cable - I think the brand is Laird. Wrapped all 4 in PET Expandable Braided Sleeving by Alex Tech . If you don’t know about these sleeves - look them up, it will change your life
  19. I have a snake I made with 1x XLR + 3x coax (SDI) to send audio to VTR, and receive up to 3 camera feeds. I have never needed a converter, even with my almost 10 years old BlackMagic duo. Can’t remember ever getting a wireless video receiver.
  20. I believe the load is correct at 50 ohms, meaning it should be fine with an RG8x. The cable you tried may have some kind of internal damage. I would try another cable to see if that makes a difference.
  21. Yeah, I’m just nerdy and wanted to see how far I could go… But Level 2 actually had a few things I found useful to know, even though I probably won’t need to use most of it. But I’m like that with all gear and read the manual, because I hate “grey areas” - I want to know how everything works, darnit !!! Haha!
  22. Yeah! Being an “analog person” myself, I was at first suspicious…. But a couple years ago I got very much into Dante and have already forgotten that I’m supposed to worry about it. I got level 2 certified, and re-did it again when the updated second edition came out. It’s free, and I highly recommend doing it. Level 3 goes way into network stuff - I started it, but decided it was too much for my purposes. Derek - no nightmares here. Maybe check that all of your devices are updated to latest firmware versions. Other than that, make sure the cables and the switch are in good shape. If it’s only a Scorpio and one DSQD, you don’t even need to keep the switch connected after you set it all up in Dante Controller - just hook the two together directly with a CAT6 cable and they will remember the connections you set up last time Dante Controller was connected.
  23. Check out the VILTROX DC-70EX 7" 4K HD 1024x600 HDMI/SDI/AV. Pretty great for the price- like $160. Has 4-pin XLR locking power, in addition to BDS compatible plug input, and can also run on a Sony L-mount battery. Has 1/4-20 on all four sides for mounting. Maybe not “perfect” picture, but who cares - I’m a sound mixer, not doing color correction… I just need to see the framing and TC etc. comes with a shade that when folded functions as a protective cover for the screen.
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