ramallo Posted January 19, 2014 Report Posted January 19, 2014 Finally, today I had the time for make my Nomad AES/EBU snake Cable: MR202-8AT (I removed one pair) (This is not exactly an AES/EBU cable but is thin and have 88 ohm (under AES/EBU tolerance) and have a good jitter figures). DB15 housing FCT Electronics FMK1G Quote
Mirror Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 Nice looking cable. I've always liked the snake skin on the individual cables on the fan side and I've wondered how it is anchored at either end so that it doesn't start to bunch up with use. Also, what are the yellow tabs for on the XLR ends? Quote
ramallo Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Posted January 21, 2014 First I cut the nylon mesh tube (2cm less than the individual cable length). When I have all the meshes in his place, I use a thermic glue between the meshes followed by heat shrink tube. This is more than enough for a long lasting cable. The yellow tabs are the numbers (1,2,3,4 and 1,2,3) Quote
Derek H Posted January 21, 2014 Report Posted January 21, 2014 Interesting, can you elaborate on thermic glue? I've mostly given up on the nylon braiding stuff in my cables because it inevitably ends up fraying and looking like shit. Maybe the glue the missing link. I'm also not totally convinced that the braiding adds any durability to the underlying cable. I would be tempted to use a right angle DB if possible. Ps great looking cable, nice work! Quote
ramallo Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Posted January 22, 2014 Interesting, can you elaborate on thermic glue? I've mostly given up on the nylon braiding stuff in my cables because it inevitably ends up fraying and looking like shit. Maybe the glue the missing link. I'm also not totally convinced that the braiding adds any durability to the underlying cable. I would be tempted to use a right angle DB if possible. Ps great looking cable, nice work! Simply with a lighter you can burn the nylon ends (you can press a bit the melted nylon for get a better join between the nylon yarns), and no more fraying. In other hand I added too a heat shrink tube Quote
Jack Norflus Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 I heat up a scissor then cut. The heat slightly melts the ends and prevents fraying. Quote
Derek H Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 What do you guys think the main advantage is to using the nylon braid? It does look cool and seems to help things from tangling a bit. Quote
Jack Norflus Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 I use it for looks / color coding. They make some that adds protection to the cable Quote
rich Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 here is a 788 AES cable i just made for a customer. i use adhesive lined heatshrink to keep everything together. Quote
ramallo Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Posted January 22, 2014 What do you guys think the main advantage is to using the nylon braid? It does look cool and seems to help things from tangling a bit. The nylon make the cable more harder (I used them in live sound for years (in snakes)), prevents cable knots and is easily replaceable. Quote
Jan McL Posted January 22, 2014 Report Posted January 22, 2014 Lovely cables, all. +1 re: angled connector. Bought a used AES cable not angled and seems like a recipe for disaster in the bag. Quote
ramallo Posted February 8, 2014 Author Report Posted February 8, 2014 I tried with the angled housing, and I observed that is a bit problematic on Nomad due the TC out connector Quote
Jack Norflus Posted February 8, 2014 Report Posted February 8, 2014 Try some thing like this: http://www.l-com.com/d-sub-right-angle-d-sub-adapters-db9-db15-hd15-db25-and-db37-low-profile-molded-and-fully-shielded Quote
fieldmixer Posted February 9, 2014 Report Posted February 9, 2014 I tried with the angled housing, and I observed that is a bit problematic on Nomad due the TC out connector Ramallo, does a right angle bnc fit underneath this connector? Quote
ramallo Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Posted February 9, 2014 Ramallo, does a right angle bnc fit underneath this connector? I don't think so, but I'll try it Quote
mastermixaudiomedia Posted May 20, 2014 Report Posted May 20, 2014 Nice job. I've got a QRX200 coming to join the QRX100Q, so time to consider moving their outputs to the DB15... Quote
Wyatt Tuzo Posted May 20, 2014 Report Posted May 20, 2014 I tried with the angled housing, and I observed that is a bit problematic on Nomad due the TC out connector Will flipping the orientation work for your setup? Fairly easy to take the RA shell apart and flip the D-sub so that the cable exits to the rear of the nomad Quote
bassmagnetic Posted May 20, 2014 Report Posted May 20, 2014 I made up an AES cable recently for my Nomad, found that a 45 degree connector worked best for my bag setup as it doesn't interfere with power or bnc connections but is more protective if the bag gets bumped from the side. I did get a very quiet high pitched buzz from the cable, it seemed like it was possible interference from the power socket. I grounded the TA5 shell's and this has minimised it / got rid of it. (the updated screw locking Rean TA5's work well) Quote
RadoStefanov Posted May 21, 2014 Report Posted May 21, 2014 Normal DB-15 with right angle adapter is a lot more compact and better option. Quote
RadoStefanov Posted May 21, 2014 Report Posted May 21, 2014 Nice job. I've got a QRX200 coming to join the QRX100Q, so time to consider moving their outputs to the DB15... One thing to consider: AES has no input limiter... No Never Clip. Quote
mastermixaudiomedia Posted May 21, 2014 Report Posted May 21, 2014 One thing to consider: AES has no input limiter... No Never Clip. Hmmm... good point Rado! I'll probably end up making one for QRX and another traditional XLR Quote
ramallo Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Posted May 21, 2014 I made up an AES cable recently for my Nomad, found that a 45 degree connector worked best for my bag setup as it doesn't interfere with power or bnc connections but is more protective if the bag gets bumped from the side. I did get a very quiet high pitched buzz from the cable, it seemed like it was possible interference from the power socket. I grounded the TA5 shell's and this has minimised it / got rid of it. (the updated screw locking Rean TA5's work well) photo 2.JPG Nice db housing, where you bought it? Quote
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