Jonmd123 Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 Hi all, I have a Senken Cos-11d lav mic that is currently terminated with an XLR that allows 48v phantom power. I want to change this to a Sennheiser-type 3.5mm TRS tip, but am getting mixed info from Sanken and Sennheiser. I own the G4 500 series wireless transmitter/receiver from Sennheiser (which is a balanced signal). Most literature — and in fact the wiring diagram Sanken sent me, is for the g3 unbalanced series. In this, it tells me to combine the ground and shield on the TRS side. But wouldn’t this unbalance my cos-11D? does anyone know the specific wiring for the G4 500 series Sennheisers that maintains a balanced signal. Or perhaps it doesn’t matter as long as the receiver sends a balanced signal to my field recorder? GOAL: cut off the XLR end of my Sanken Cos-11D and solder on a TRS 3.5mm Jack so I can use the mic with the Sennheiser G4 500 series wireless pack, that uses a balanced signal. any help would be much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 Follow the instructions they sent and you'll be ok. That being said, COS-11 can be very tricky to solder (tiny wires, kevlar fibres etc) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul F Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 48 minutes ago, Jonmd123 said: ......Or perhaps it doesn’t matter ....... It doesn't matter. Not on a signal that short. Do what Jason said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalton Patterson Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 Rubber eraser block. Very sharp fresh razor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izen Ears Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 Man I would love to see a well documented video of somebody wiring this crap. Those damn fibers and the fact that there are so few wires has made it utterly impossible for me to have any success. What is the purpose of those fibers anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalton Patterson Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 Cable resilience. So the copper hairs do not bend into a crimp and break as easily. Also insulation, and spacing inside the cable jacket. I’ll make the video. I just have to hire an instagram social media managing firm to handle all my fans from my Facebook page…NOT. I only need some COS11 volunteers. I only own DPA. I started out playing with solder in 6th grade. Probably not the most healthy but I am pretty good with an iron these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Reineke Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 Most lavaliere mics are inherently unbalanced, and most body pack transmitters do not supply Phantom Pwr either, so you do not need the current XLR Phantom Pwr supply converter/adapter. I am not sure about the Sennheiser G 500 series Tx, but the 100 series plug feeds the needed bias current on the same terminal (tip) as the 'mic level' audio. The ring terminal being tied to the shield along with the ground. I am not sure if a resistor (or what value) is 'recommended' to wire the COS-11 for body pack Tx usage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonmd123 Posted February 12 Author Report Share Posted February 12 Thanks for the advice, everyone. I will document my process and be cautious of the small wires and Kevlar strands. I’ll share the link to my video once done — assuming I succeed 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich Posted February 12 Report Share Posted February 12 i have had no luck whatsoever in trying to cut away the insulation of the individual conductors of a COS11 before soldering. which is probably entirely down to not having a proper insulation cutter, and instead using a blade and carefully trying to only cut the insulation. what i have been doing for many years instead, is getting a blob of solder onto the tip of the iron, and pushing the wire through that to burn away the insulation and tin the wire. the trick is to not take too long otherwise you will burn it, and the conductor inside will fall off. it takes a bit of practice, but if you are confident with a soldering iron, and have the right shaped tip for the iron (i think i have a 2.3mm chisel tip) this will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vin Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 thermal stripper... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Radlauer Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 I get a dab of solder on the tip of the iron and basically burn it off and tin the lead at the same time. A little bit of flux helps as well. This has worked extremely well for me. I use a Hako with a very thin tip around 550 F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebi Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 16 hours ago, Rick Reineke said: Most lavaliere mics are inherently unbalanced, and most body pack transmitters do not supply Phantom Pwr either, so you do not need the current XLR Phantom Pwr supply converter/adapter. I am not sure about the Sennheiser G 500 series Tx, but the 100 series plug feeds the needed bias current on the same terminal (tip) as the 'mic level' audio. The ring terminal being tied to the shield along with the ground. I am not sure if a resistor (or what value) is 'recommended' to wire the COS-11 for body pack Tx usage. Yes, the inputs on the ew500 series are unbalanced afaik. Same as ew100. Tip of the jack for mic-level and ring for line-level signals. The output of the ew500 Rx is balanced, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tourtelot Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 19 hours ago, Matt Radlauer said: I get a dab of solder on the tip of the iron and basically burn it off and tin the lead at the same time. This! Works on lacquer-cover wires as well; Sony headphone wires. D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izen Ears Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 On 2/12/2023 at 11:45 PM, Matt Radlauer said: I get a dab of solder on the tip of the iron and basically burn it off and tin the lead at the same time. A little bit of flux helps as well. This has worked extremely well for me. I use a Hako with a very thin tip around 550 F You know, I like to use 840F so perhaps I just used too much heat! I too have decent soldering skills and this is the method I used. The solder stuck, but no sound came out so I gave up. Yes please post a video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Radlauer Posted February 17 Report Share Posted February 17 14 hours ago, Izen Ears said: You know, I like to use 840F so perhaps I just used too much heat! I too have decent soldering skills and this is the method I used. The solder stuck, but no sound came out so I gave up. Yes please post a video! 840F is a bit too hot.. I had to play around a bit with temps to find where it wouldn't burn off too much material.. 550F seems to be the sweet spot for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tourtelot Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 FWIW, in general, my "do-it-all" tip temperature is 750. I still insist on using lead/rosin core (and have a lifetime stock). Up to 850 if I'm doing a bunch of XLRs and remember to turn it up. D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason porter Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 I thought you 750-850 guys were nuts, til I realized you're talking F. 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tourtelot Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 Yep. D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalton Patterson Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 Ok, just to be clear. This method works but is the wrong wrong wrong way to do it. A thermal stripper is preferred but a straight razor and rubber eraser block will work without compromising the insulation. You’re doing other things like compromising the insulation and wicking solder past the recommended distance creating a un-flexing joint that will eventually bend and snap. 🫰 I get it. We’re not working in avionics or aerospace. Just sayin. I’ve had connection snap in between takes and you would have thought we had a dying surgery patient on the operating table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izen Ears Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 15 hours ago, Dalton Patterson said: Ok, just to be clear. This method works but is the wrong wrong wrong way to do it. A thermal stripper is preferred but a straight razor and rubber eraser block will work without compromising the insulation. You’re doing other things like compromising the insulation and wicking solder past the recommended distance creating a un-flexing joint that will eventually bend and snap. 🫰 I get it. We’re not working in avionics or aerospace. Just sayin. I’ve had connection snap in between takes and you would have thought we had a dying surgery patient on the operating table. A video would be very helpful. Or if you could elaborate on the eraser part. I get using a razor instead of a stripper, I do that all the time. But getting those tiny hairs of copper separated from the tiny fibers so a solder connection is possible, I am lost. I've tried a lighter to burn off those fibers, but that didn't really work. How does an eraser get rid of those fibers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalton Patterson Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 Send me a Cos-11. JK, I feel you. I’ll make a video. It’s tough, I’m gonna have to rent a studio and hire a camera op and a lighting guy. Jk again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tourtelot Posted February 20 Report Share Posted February 20 Sorry Mr. D. The "burn the insulation off with solder" works just fine in my experience. Been doing it that way for a LONG time and can not ever attribute a failure to the method. YMMV. D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Izen Ears Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 On 2/20/2023 at 1:14 PM, tourtelot said: Sorry Mr. D. The "burn the insulation off with solder" works just fine in my experience. Been doing it that way for a LONG time and can not ever attribute a failure to the method. YMMV. D. What temp? I bet I made the mistake of thinking one temp is the best for everything. I made up a bunch of XLRs and TRSs today and at 750 it was so slow! So I went back to 840 and it was much better. But that may be way too hot for those tiny TA5 cups and those hairs they call wires inside a COS?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 I’m also curious about the eraser. DPA have their own irritating shit but they are much easier than a Sanken to wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tourtelot Posted February 24 Report Share Posted February 24 I solder most everything, including lacquer covered wire at 750F. As I said above, if I'm doing a slew of XLRs or the like, I'll turn up to 850F. Do remember that I am using lead solder and it behaves very differently the non-lead. I kinda hate non-lead solder. So even if I am soldering XLRs, if I am not making a morning of it, I don't bother to move the iron off 750F. Long, long habit; I was taught to solder in the mid-70s by Paul Prestopino, long-time chief maintenance guy at Record Plant NYC. That wasn't all he taught me . . . . I know, I'm old. D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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