Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
726 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 154 views
I want to get a power supply for my BDS so I can run off AC power. Remote Audio make one but due to covid supplies are short and wait times long. I figure it wouldn’t be too hard to get a laptop power supply and solder on a TA4 connector. The Remote Audio ones are 12VDC 5A max, but does anyone know the power rating?
Last reply by Shastapete, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 64 views
I can't find this. Do DBSM/DBSMD TA5 timecode Jam cables use normal line level wiring?
Last reply by Johnny Karlsson, -
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- 0 replies
- 153 views
Just curious if there is a small size product available or better yet if anyone has done a DIY project for sequencing power to devices from battery distribution. I am finding in a particular situation now that if I could flip the switch and then program power to a specific device to turn on 15 seconds later, it would work wonders. I have a furman M8S At home that sort of triggered the idea of it.
Last reply by osa, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 166 views
hi, Would anyone have experience opening this adapter for re wiring? I've taken the screws out and twisted, but wanted to ask, to avoid breaking it. thanks Rodrigo
Last reply by rosa, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 554 views
Have any of you fine folks tried reading LTC from a raspberry pi? I'm mildly curious to see if I could make a timecode display driven by a Nanolockit.
Last reply by Bouke, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 377 views
Hi, I’d had a 4061 repaired by somebody a few years ago as it had been damaged at the capsule end. The repair held up for a little bit but eventually died again. at that point I gave it a go myself and have done a pretty solid repair of the mic now. the only thing is that the guy who did the original repair had removed the material(looks almost like wax) that DPA pot the capsule in. I’m looking to use the repaired mic as a “beater” mic for salt water shoots(I’ve got to mic up a jetski in a few weeks’ time), but I worry that my exposed solder joints won’t take too kindly to the prolonged exposure to salt water, no matter how ca…
Last reply by Bobobob, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 707 views
AS NOTED BELOW, any use of this information in entirely AT YOUR OWN RISK and may damage your equipment. Being a huge nerd I simply had to try connecting in to my SRc via serial. I haven't had any luck finding a command reference from Lectro but I've been able to get it talking to my mac over USB, and I've figured out the serial equivalents of most of the menu items. I'll attach what I've found so far. The things I can't yet get to happen are IR sync, scanning, and smart tune. Some or all of this may be wrong, this is just an afternoon's hacking project. Feel free to correct me where needed. SRc (1).txt
Last reply by Neil Bliss, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 363 views
Hi all, I have a couple old COS11 that i don't use to mic people with anymore. The cable jacket got kinda stiff with the time and i switched to DPA for lav since a couple of films already. I do use them a lot in car rigs and i was thinking of modifying a couple to be a gooseneck mic which would be much faster to rig and adjust. I am now looking for a small gooseneck where i could feed the COS11 cable into, glue the mic on one end and solder the connector on the other. My question to you guys is has any of you already try this? With success or not? has anyone found the perfect gooseneck to realise this mod? I tried to use the gooseneck of these small Ikea USB LED…
Last reply by Constantin, -
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- 236 views
I am going to wire an older AT899(cW) for a Sennheiser G4 3.5mm. Am I correct that I connet the Mic (white) to the tip and tie the Bias(red) and ground to both the ring and sleeve?
Last reply by Michael Render, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 667 views
I am a wedding DJ that takes a serious interest in ceremony sound. For some time now I have been loading up a Muver6 folding cart to house 2 to 3 SKB cases along with battery power, a pelican case, and a cable bag, and I am trying to get a bit more streamlined. What is funny is that I started thinking of a "big wheel" cart for this use before I was even aware that many pro film and other sound engineers have been doing this for a number of years. I ran across a thread here from way back in 2012 that more or less touches on the concept I am thinking about I work with modularity in mind. I have two mic "boxes" that I can go hot with up to 8 mics. Although t…
Last reply by S Harber, -
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- 338 views
Working on a cart build and curious how people secure their 8 series to their carts? I’m aware of the 1/4 20 thread on the bottom, is anyone using that? If so what are you screwing it into? Obviously I can throw it in a bag and just plop the bag on the cart but looking for a more permanent solution so the mixer can live on the cart. The cart is going to have standard rack spaces so anything that could interface within them would be perfect.
Last reply by Constantin, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 570 views
I needed to rewire a XLR5F to 2-XLR3M splitter. (It turns out that DMX pin assignments are not the same as audio) I normally keep my Hakko at 750F, but that didn't even make a dent in the solder joints. I had to go to 850 and barely got flow. Is this normal these days? Has anyone else experienced this? I am a not great with solder, but I usually don't have this much trouble. Any advice from experienced solderers would be appreciated.
Last reply by Michael Render, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 279 views
I've made some panels out of Johns Manville SuperDuct RC duct boards wrapped in Guilford of Maine Anchorage. They're huge (70" x 44") and cover the inside of my whisper room. I thought I'd just nail up the panels with small nails since I didn't make frames, wanted the panels themselves to be flush with corners. The question is whether the fiberglass is strong enough to hold its own weight on the wall? Has anyone tried? I have a fear of the panels just sliding down around the nail like butter but I'm not sure if that's valid, or if it's rigid enough to just stay put.
Last reply by TVPostSound, -
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Here's a couple of cart projects that may give you some ideas for your cart. I made a small folding table top for the top of the cart. It's a handy little space to put things while working on something or making adjustments. It sets up and folds away quickly. The table is made from some thin hardwood stock that is available online. The two pieces are held together by gluing sturdy fabric (duck cloth) on the back side. The supports are 3/4" aluminum stock that is bent around the antenna posts. Everything folds away when not in use. I like to drink coffee all day from a mug. These coffee cup holders from T-Nutz work well for mugs or tall drink holder…
Last reply by Paul F, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 367 views
Hi everyone, I just bought the mixpre 10t ii last week, and on my first shoot (which got canceled before it even began, no less) I somehow managed to shear off the exterior of the headphone connector. No idea how this happened, and my headphone's 1/8" jack is not bent or damaged either. See the attached photos. SD offered to fix it, but I won't have a recorder for 2 weeks and would have to pay for inbound shipping. They alternatively offered to send me a replacement part, but were specific in not being able to offer guidance on how to DIY the repair, which is understandable. Rather than take it to a reseller for repair and spend ~$75-150, I was won…
Last reply by Johnny Karlsson, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 653 views
Hello I recently modded my sennheiser G4. what kind of sma antenna to cut do you suggest to use? I found zaxcom (straight version that is in kit 2 pieces to be cutted) for around 28$ kit. There is also audioroot swivel version for 30$ each one (60$ for 2). Remote audio miracle whip (straight version) 60$ for 2 antennas. The zaxcom ones seems the cheaper one. Are zaxcom good? Is the swivel version of the sma connector worth for the extra price? Thanks
Last reply by igomarsound, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
- 783 views
For anyone interested, I've designed a couple of rack-mountable headphone hangers, one plain, one fancy. They have a 1U base and you can hang your headphones on them. You'll need a 3D printer, or a friend with a 3D printer who knows what they're doing, and these .stl files. https://we.tl/t-95Kz8xNDvA All the best, John
Last reply by soundmanjohn, -
- 4 followers
- 4 replies
- 427 views
Less than $20 worth of hardware to make two of these..
Last reply by Derek H, -
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- 248 views
Hi I’m about to do the next thing. I would like to modify my eSMARTG BG-DH power disto in order to feed it with an Aton Bauer VCLX I'm thinking to solder XLR4pin’s Male/female between the eSMART socket conector and the distributor To still using the eSmart bag batteries when I need any one has tryed something like this ? Any advice thanks!!
Last reply by Rafael, -
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- 181 views
Has anyone 3D printed or sourced colored boots for Rean TA3 straight connectors?
Last reply by Mikro Addict, -
- 1 follower
- 5 replies
- 485 views
Is it hard to convert the "K-Tek K152CCR Klassic 5-Section Boompole with Stereo 5pin XLR Cable" to a normal 3 pin XLR connection? What do I need? thanks
Last reply by TomBoisseau, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 552 views
File this DIY under having more time than brains. I have a K-Tek Klassic pole with an internal cable. I want the removable-head feature of the Klassic Pro so that I can insert or remove the cable at-will without the need to un-solder. Of course, the easy answer is to sell the Klassic and buy a Klassic pro. But I really like to fabricate for the sake of fabricating and seeing what I can do. The first step is to heat up the head to soften the epoxy and then pull off the metal head. Then I made the two new parts that epoxy onto the pole and the head. Now the head can be unscrewed and the cable removed.
Last reply by Paul F, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 365 views
Made this mount for A10 to fit a 15mm Ambient boom pole, there's a slot for a BongoTie rubber band, to secure the transmitter and keep the whole thing from not rotating on the boompole. Printed with Flexfill 98A on a Prusa Mini, with 100% infill around the boompole. Hope you’ll find it useful too. a10 ambient boom holder.stl
Last reply by zilver, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 416 views
I made a 1/8” stereo cable for a dvd player for the kids in the car from scrap cable and connectors. As soon as we tap into 12v power in the car there is a buzz in the audio and whine that follows acceleration. Is there a trick to build into the cable to “lift” or otherwise combat the buzz that occurs that someone here might be familiar with?
Last reply by John Blankenship, -
- 8 replies
- 654 views
What are these little foot-capturing-mount-plate things called?
Last reply by Neil Bliss,
