Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
807 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
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- 154 views
I know a lot of folks here are self-sufficient, but wanted to share my repair in case someone else has to do it and save you the trouble of taking out the wrong screws. It seems to be a problem that is very common amongst people I have talked to and I have two of them with this problem. I am repairing 2x of them right now. Just wish the nut was somehow on the outside, but not too hard of a fix. With the battery door to the left, If you remove the two larger screws shown below middle top and middle bottom, the two screws on the side near the battery door, and the four screws on the side to the right, a little Tweaker screwdriver pry at the seams in the panel will pop the p…
Last reply by osa, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 308 views
Hi, I am trying to find any advice on good repair/service providers that can properly rewire some lav mic cable connectors for me. In tha past I've used Wilcox Sound but have been unable to contact them recently. Any suggestions?
Last reply by edward chick, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
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Hey all, Do you have any recommendations for 7-core microphone cable for a DMS setup? The only specifically-7-core stuff I can find is designed for tube microphones (5 audio + 2 DC power). Does a simple 7-core audio microphone cable exist? Or is everyone just adapting 4-pair Mogami or Canare? Thanks!
Last reply by LDstudios, -
- 3 followers
- 4 replies
- 637 views
Finished this build in March of '23. I've posted in other groups on FB, but wanted to make it available here. I appreciated seeing lots of other routes that others took before I decided on my build. Links to all parts below. Took a lot of trial and error with parts, fasteners, finding the right tools, but finally got her finished for a good while. Posting this with the hopes that it'll save others literal days of shopping, planning, shipping parts back, and throwing things away. Upgraded to 5" casters in the front because I work in rough terrain sometimes, and I based the rear wheels on that, so she's level, and she still folds! Total cost under $240, …
Last reply by Derek H, -
- 3 followers
- 13 replies
- 942 views
I am finally at a stage designing my drawers on my 2 carts. I am having to decide what material. Should I use aluminum 2020 and aluminum composite or simplify by making them thin plywood, or weld aluminum sheet? Trying to keep it as light as possible.
Last reply by RadoStefanov, -
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Hello all, long time lurker here. I think I have something some of you might find useful, and probably even improve upon. I mentioned my invoicing spreadsheet in an LA Sound Mixers' Facebook thread and some people asked for a template, so I thought I'd share it here as well. I've found that I prefer coding my own invoicing spreadsheet vs paying monthly for Wave, not only because it's free but also because it allows more flexibility to set things up just the way you like them, and you get to learn a new skill in the process. The only drawback for me is a lack of mobile-friendliness, when I want to create an estimate/invoice from my phone. I may eventually …
Last reply by Adam Pressley, -
- 2 followers
- 2 replies
- 572 views
I want to make a cable dipole antenna (described here in several threads), for my IFB Sennheiser transmitter. The purpose is to avoid the RF spray in my bag. Where´s the best place to put the antenna? Harness or elsewhere?
Last reply by marilo, -
I'm trying to make an SMA antenna perform as well as the stock Sennheiser G3/G4 antenna. Does anyone know the specific type or name of this wire? Is it steel, copper, or something else? Also, where can I buy a good replacement? Any help would be much appreciated!
Last reply by Paul F, -
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I've decided to put some older G3 ENG receivers to use again as IEM receivers. There have been many threads asking about how to convert EK100 units by adding a pot and or amplifier circuit but that is just impractical. So here is a little passive box I have put together which takes a mono signal from an EK100 and sends it to both L and R sides of any set of head phones. It also obviously allows the user to adjust the volume pot. I've tested with Kz IEMs, crap dollar store buds, and Audio Technica ATM 20, 30, 40 and 50 headphones (not sure of the impedances). With the Sennheiser transmitter driven somewhat hard (tickling the AF Peak li…
Last reply by Elusive Sounds, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 919 views
Hi everyone, For one DIY thing, I need to make an extension cable between my 4ch Wisycom MCR54 receiver and an SLK54-IK Superslot backplate. I'm looking for an interconnect plug type that's used in backplates to connect to a PCB terminal on the bottom of the receiver, and wondering if it's some standard connector that I can buy separately, or did Wisycom design their own custom terminal. Tried looking it up with Google lens but no luck... Any insights?
Last reply by Rory Reshovsky, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 2.8k views
Hello, I am searching for a low profile male 3 pin XLR connector that is less than 3.5 cm in length overall, cap included, ideally in Europe but not too fussed if it can be found elsewhere willing to ship to Europe Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks! Mattia
Last reply by Paul F, -
- 4 followers
- 12 replies
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Basically, adding power to a cart is like plugging in a big power strip on your cart. Yes, that should probably be a 3-prong grounded cable. But should I bond that ground conductor to the metal cart and rack, or should I actually try to insulate against grounding anything (In the US, if that matters, and it must be within NFPA/NEC codes. I have a codebook but have no idea what section it's in because filmmaking uses a lot of standalone generators.) I can see issues either way. One issue is if it's on genny power and someone touches both the grounded cart and something on house power, there could be a high enough voltage bias between grounds that co…
Last reply by Derek H, -
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- 319 views
Hi there, I am adding a hinge to the lid of my 4U SKB rack case, so that it can be used to hold an iPad and other small items. Has anyone had success doing that? What size of hinge did you use? I am looking at https://www.penn-elcom.com/us/large-black-lift-off-hinge-p0626k Cheers, M
Last reply by Mikro Addict, -
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
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Hi there 3D print fans: here are a couple of files for push-on low profile end caps for the Neutrik XX series of connectors i.e. the ones with the internal threads. There are two versions, one for F and for M connectors: the cable entry gap on this version is 5mm ( about 1/5th"). I can do larger or smaller, if required. I recommend printing at 100% fill with a robust filament. All the best, John Neutrik Short XLR F Plug V5 5mm Cable.stl Neutrik Short XLR M Plug V5 5mm Cable.stl
Last reply by soundmanjohn, -
- 6 followers
- 19 replies
- 7.6k views
So I found a giant mistake in the design of all sound carts. Stand by for me to finish mine “hopefully very soon” and I will post pictures and more details,
Last reply by RadoStefanov, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 895 views
Curious if there is an easy diy solution to delay powering a device from bds with an adjustable time. When i power on my kit, camera link tc starts at zero, jams, but bu files stay at zero. Talked to howy about this and i believe a fix is in the works. Just looking to power camera link to power on 5sec or so after mixer -Ken
Last reply by osa, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.8k views
Hello everyone, Currently working on upgrading my cart I am searching for a solution for a single telescopic pole to attach to it, in order to carry the bar with up to 4 antennas. Now bear in mind that it must be light so preferably aluminium and with an anti twist system. I came upon one like that on a rented cart but cannot find any trace of it online so far. The anti twist was a kind of dent along the poles that prevent the poles from twisting within in each other and that was very convenient when operating in a windy weather. I have no idea what the brand was. I do not think it was Manfrotto. Thanks in advance for your suggestions. Regards …
Last reply by traut, -
- 2 followers
- 16 replies
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Anyone find anything more sturdy? I guess it could ride loose in a larger pouch like a comtek P-1 pouch, but those die quickly too. I have replaced those Lectro pouches over and over, and I'm sick of it. Plus, the click-orientator thing always dies immediately. I like my IFB to rest sideways, long side parallel to the ground, and the Comtek pouch couldn't do that. And after two days the Lectro ones don't. This is a perfect project for a 3D pioneer. I'd love something like a cell phone click-in belt clip. Something that can orient sideways and stay there. Dan Izen
Last reply by Izen Ears, -
- 3 followers
- 17 replies
- 4.6k views
Hi everyone. You all might have experienced that (at least those working with their gear for more than 20 years) SOME cables start to ooze some oily stuff after a long time stored. I have read that it can come from some type of plasticizer included in the composition of the outer PVC shell. What is weird for me is that some cables from the same origin are doing it and some don't. For example I have a Sanken COS11 that I have had for quite some time now maybe 15 years. It is still in good shape and perfectly working but the cable is oozing oil ! No matter how I wipe it, it keeps on coming back. Strangely, I have a second one that I bought together with the o…
Last reply by Fred Salles, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
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Anyone have a recommendation for a caster specialist vendor who will sell small quantities? I feel like McMaster is a little overpriced in this area. Also every time I Google this it seems like there are new caster dealers since the last time.
Last reply by Derek H, -
- 2 followers
- 8 replies
- 3.1k views
Hi, I'm trying to lighten my bag for an ENG shoot and want to make a lighter boom mic cable. Do you have a recommendation for a suitable type of cable please? I found the CANARE L-2E5, which seems to fit well. Sommer Cable offers a bunch of cables, but the thinner ones are said to be suitable for fixed installations, so I'm worried they won't be very stiff cables. Thank you for the recommendation.
Last reply by Richtrohr, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
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Hi, I'm trying to make a male 5pin XLR to Female 3pin XLR x 2 for Sony Venice. Does anyone know how the wiring goes? I am pretty new to making my own cables but I've made a few normal XLR cables. Thank you
Last reply by Richtrohr, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 3k views
Hi there, I'm planning on adding a figure 8 mic to my blimp for stereo recording. It looks like the accepted standard is to run both 3-pin XLRs from the mics inside the blimp into a single 5-pin XLR fixed to the shock mount base. There even is a corresponding pinout in AES14, so that part is sorted. Which type of cable should I use for the run between the 5-pin XLR at the pole top and the recorder inputs? Of course the optimum would be a multicore with separately shielded twisted pairs but I imagine that being a bit cumbersome for field use. Also, 2-pair multicore is not that common, they usually start with 4 pairs. Every commercial sol…
Last reply by Richtrohr, -
- 6 replies
- 1.6k views
Anyone here have experience - better yet pictures - opening an audioroot or other smart battery? I have one bad cell in a pack and would like to play around with it without destroying it.
Last reply by Elusive Sounds, -
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- 733 views
Hi all, I am in a predicament. Our lovely DPA 4035 headset microphones are starting to fail - these are lovely, bulky headset microphone arms with DPA 4007 capsules on the end that get used in broadcast. We suspect it is just a worn-out cable at the top of the arm, but I can't seem to get it disassembled to repair or replace. DPA are no help. They no longer sell parts for the microphones, nor service them. Any thoughts on how I might get inside this thing? The capsule doesn't seem to unscrew at all. The tragedy is - if I can't get these things repaired, Rode headsets have been suggested as the replacements...
Last reply by LDstudios,
