Johnny Karlsson

Did my first shoot with one of these today. Thanks to this thread, I avoided skid-marks when I requested a playback for assurance, and no audio played back.... put the camera in "media mode", and all was well. Funny thing - the headphone level goes to 15. Also had to get into the menu to adjust hp level, since cam op had customized settings, so the +/- level buttons had some other function. No issues. Sounded just fine for interviews. Headphone return is a bit hiss-y (no surprise).

Yes, it was really good to meet you guys in person. Didn't get a chance to talk to everyone obviously, but still awesome. Thank you!

Maybe I am missing something, but why not simply set the computer/screen sleep-setting to "never"?

Just watched it too and like it very much... Man, I'm ready to pay 300 bucks to eat that guy's sushi right now!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TDZOXG I use these with the included velour pads since the beginning of this year, no problems so far. They have made my mdr7506 with Garfield softies my backup set.

Anything in Albuquerque?

"Happiness is frequently contagious -- few people are able to watch the above video without smiling." Yeah, it worked on me Thanks Eric!

For these types of things, hiding the lav can simply mean making sure it's out of frame. I just talk to DP and producer about this and they are usually fine with it. Mounting the lav mid chest on a button-up shirt or blouse is usually no problem, (especially if it's a sit-down). I just say something like "this way it will sound much better, and the camera doesn't see it anyway..." Still put the boom overhead on a stand - always.

I got this one to hang the boom on the bag while running & gunning. Snaps on to one of the d-rings and frees up both hands for things like; breaking off the camera-snake, lav-ing, de-laving, etc. It's made by Nite-Ize and is intended to be a sleeve that slips over any D cell flashlight. Fits my 9' K-Tek boom like a glove. http://www.amazon.co...TF8&me=&seller=

There's been some selling for around $2500. In fact, I might be interested - give me a call.

Richard, I still have the Snow Leo disc, which I no longer need. PM me and we can figure something out. I would be careful with upgrading before reading the compatibility grid on Avid's site , and DUC to make sure that the combo of your Mac model and (Mountain) Lion will work with your version of PT and the interface you are using. I have installed Mountain Lion on my 2010 MacBook Pro 2.66 i7 (after doing some tests to make sure I wouldn't get burned) and have no issues so far. Running Pro Tools v.9.0.6 and Logic v.9.1.7.

+332 3 in, 3 recording tracks, 2 out would go a long way! Ability to jam TC would be sweet too, of course... now it would probably be a bit bigger in size to fit all that

I believe the Eneloops actually last longer than Procells. I charge them with the Maha Powerex charger/analyzer, which shows the voltage at 1.45-1.47 when fully charged. It drops down to 1.4 prretty quick and stays around 1.3-1.35 for a long time. 1.2v is empty.

You are right in that you can only change the reading for external power. I used to power both my 442 and 302 with the Eneloops until I switched to a BDS. My take on it is that the reading doesn't really matter, as long as you know what is going on. The voltage will stay at a certain point for a long time with these batteries vs. alkalizes that drop the voltage gradually as they discharge. IIRC the 302 will run a full day on 3 batteries with one P48 engaged. I timed the 442 once and it gets about 16 hours (it has a 4 battery slot). Just make sure you start with fully recharged batteries in the morning and you should be good for most days. (of course keep the spares with you, just in case...)

There's a common misconception about that with the 200 series. Lectro changed the lights on the 200C model because of this. First thing to do is to listen - does it sound ok? Also look at the display on your 211 and make sure you get a good level there (you should get a nice full triangle and occasional square). If it's square all the time, then you have a too hot signal. I use 200 series with COS-11s and usually have the dial at around 11-12 o'clock, unless the subject is screaming.

Got mine today, and yes Jack, just like you I had a similar thing with my wife... Even started to try explaining haha Thanks Larry!

I researched this recently and came to the conclusion that it's better to connect the jumper because it helps protect against RF.

This is exactly how I looked at it all my life, much preferring beer and whiskey over wine. Then about 7-8 years ago, went on a wine tasting trip up in the Los Olivos / Santa Ynez area with my wife and some friends. It was like oooohhh, now I get it.... My favorites are from the Paso Robles area. We try to make the trek there once every year now. Each time, I end up getting 5-6... or 10 bottles in the $20-30 range, but nothing crazy. That lasts me for over a year since I still mainly drink beer or whiskey and save the wines for special events (or for gifts). If you go on a trip like that and still don't notice any difference - "Two-buck Chuck"* is pretty good (especially for the money). * Two-buck Chuck = Charles Shaw, $1.99 at Trader Joes and oh - if you are looking for seriously good wine for very little money, check out some of the stuff coming out of Argentina!

yup, the current version of Mac OSX is using more than 1.6 GB RAM right after boot up, with no programs running (except for Activity Monitor, which is using around 80MB).

10 tracks should be fine with either drive, but I would still return them and get the 7200 RPM version. I imagine the difference in cost is negligible. Since we're talking about an external drive, it only reads / writes the audio files, so the OS and software are actually not running off of this drive. Therefore there's no difference between PT and Metacorder regardless of plug-ins, size of software etc. Other things to consider are the cache size of the drive itself, as well as read/write speed. Your Mac mini should be fine recording 10 tracks, but 2 GB of RAM is low by todays standards. 4 GB would give me better peace of mind (if it's possible to upgrade the mini?).

I would suggest that this is a question that is better not to ask, just in case the person turns out to be someone like the one you describe. It may also give the impression that you are not sure about what you are doing. All that aside, I work a lot with small 2-3 person crews and I will always help things move along when I can, whether it's running stingers, setting up light stands, green screen etc. (and the reverse at wrap). It just makes sense to me. The crew is a team and the way I look at it is that we are working on the same piece, and the day will be a hell of a lot better if we can all be friendly. If there's a gaffer, grip and/or PA involved, I focus on the audio, however if I'm all set up and ready to roll, I will still stand in or whatever, rather than just stand around farting.

"Acceptera inga subbor" kanske haha... Perhaps just me, but I kinda think it's cool that it's wrong. There is some very funny stuff that comes out of mistranslation, perhaps in part thanks to Google... http://www.engrish.com/

Sweeet

Not sure Max, perhaps someone else could chime in? (or just <hat> I use the IDX NP-L7s with this setting, and they are rated 14.8 Volts, 4.8Ah. Interesting to me is that the Lectro receivers read the voltage at well over 16v when fully charged and when the battery is getting low it's close to 14v. In practice, I'm thinking it doesn't really matter, as long as you know when the batteries are getting low and need to be replaced. Simply leave the gear on for a day when you are not working and time how long they last and make a note of what the reading on the 302 meter is right before it dies.

I would suggest setting 1: 12 V NiCad, NiMH, Li, etc. Hi = 13v, Flash point = 11.5., Low = 11v There is a setting for Hi=14v, but that is for 12 V Lead Acid batteries, and I believe they behave differently in terms of how they drain.