Toy Robot Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Well done Matt. I love this DIY spirit. Makes our work so much fun! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mradlauer Posted June 11, 2013 Report Share Posted June 11, 2013 Well done Matt. I love this DIY spirit. Makes our work so much fun! Thanks!! This method works out so much better...I love building stuff so I may tinker around with some right angle TA5/3 connectors...Those are tricky in their traditional form! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc Wielage Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Looks great, Matt! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malcolm Davies Amps CAS Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 I don't see any issues with the hot glue inside at all, and if you follow the tutorial I posted on my website you'll see why it works without freezing the connector release. I also don't understand why people are so hellbent on 'fixing' these. How is a cable that is filled with 3,000 PSI epoxy going to break when the wires inside literally cannot even move - and therefore cannot 'break' or come undone? Of course everyone has their own solution and if it makes you uncomfortable not to be able to fix it then by all means go about it another way, but I just don't foresee ever needing to get inside these cables. At 3K PSI the actual connector itself would have to be crushed before the wiring would come undone. Mind you it's only my opinion, but I believe the way I did mine are cheap, easy to make, fast to make and as far as I can tell they should be nearly unbreakable. If I'm wrong I promise I'll update you ladies and gentlemen here if any of these cables ever fail! If you feel uncomfortable using epoxy try silicone as used by plumbers. If you want to use the connector again you can just cut the silicone away. Malcolm Davies A.m.p.s. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Wilkinson Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 The Neutriks are a bit bulky but the NC-FRX with the swivel head is working nicely in my bag. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff Wexler Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Big! But no DIY needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeeKai Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 I had one of the right angle neutriks for my boom pole jumper cable. I had to put a straight XLR on it eventually because it was too noisy when plugged into the base of my internally coiled pole. (the "user selectable angle" function meant that the components were a loose fit in every configuration - the end result was that the right angled XLR shook about and caused annoying LF rumble. I'd much rather have one of the nice looking DIY ones made by one of you guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Gilchrist Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 I had one of the right angle neutriks for my boom pole jumper cable. I had to put a straight XLR on it eventually because it was too noisy when plugged into the base of my internally coiled pole. (the "user selectable angle" function meant that the components were a loose fit in every configuration - the end result was that the right angled XLR shook about and caused annoying LF rumble. I'd much rather have one of the nice looking DIY ones made by one of you guys! A small piece of foot foam or a couple of layers of moleskin between the piece of plastic insulation and the back cover plate of the connector will quiet the old-style Neutrik right angle XLR connectors down. It takes some care to re-attach the cover but an easy and quick fix. Best regards, Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeeKai Posted July 4, 2013 Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 A small piece of foot foam or a couple of layers of moleskin between the piece of plastic insulation and the back cover plate of the connector will quiet the old-style Neutrik right angle XLR connectors down. It takes some care to re-attach the cover but an easy and quick fix. Best regards, Jim Thanks a lot Jim - I'll give it a shot and report back! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phenix Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Has anyone in the Kortwich/diy discussion addressed the issue of shielding? (I saw the bottlecap. ) Are the Kortwich products shielded? Nobody has wanted to waste the money on opening one up and looking? If people are gearing up to market their own DIY version in US, will there be patent infringement issues? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wandering Ear Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Has anyone in the Kortwich/diy discussion addressed the issue of shielding? (I saw the bottlecap. ) Are the Kortwich products shielded? Nobody has wanted to waste the money on opening one up and looking? If people are gearing up to market their own DIY version in US, will there be patent infringement issues? A standard series xlr isn't shielded at the boot, so I wouldn't worry about it. If you are modding an emc connector to lo profile, then maybe it would matter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JamesB Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Has anyone in the Kortwich/diy discussion addressed the issue of shielding? (I saw the bottlecap. ) Are the Kortwich products shielded? Nobody has wanted to waste the money on opening one up and looking? If people are gearing up to market their own DIY version in US, will there be patent infringement issues? I haven't had any issues with mine so far. If you were worried I'd think you could add some foil tape to back of the cap before glueing it down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Thanks for all the various DIY info on making these rt angle xlrs, I'm ready to make some for my 664 inputs. Matt, I'm curious which Neutrik's you used as I would like to avoid having to cut down the connectors if possible. Was it this model (with internal thread) http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xx-series/nc3mxx-wob or the neutrik posted earlier (with the M17x1 thread on the back) http://www.neutrik.com/en/accessories/modules/nm3mxi Both look like they would work, but looks like you might have used the former. I decided to use different connectors...And instead of cutting them down, I just drilled holes in them to pass the cable thru...much faster build and while they were a pain to solder...they are much more solid. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Toline Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Most recent cut down XLR connector cables. I used the Neutrik XX series and cut them down to get them as short as practical with a cut out for the cable. Filled the space with a glue gun to lock the pin blocks in place and used 1/2" metal hole plugs as caps. I use Mogami 2697 for connections, it's 2 conductor shielded, very flexible for bag use. I cut a keyway for the cable at the top of the case. If you drill a 3/16ths hole in the case for this cable you can solder the connections outside the case and then place it back in the case. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
soundtrane Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Eric, i'm assuming you are using a cable tie to secure the cable inside the connector... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Toline Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Eric, i'm assuming you are using a cable tie to secure the cable inside the connector... Not needed. The hot glue filling holds it in place. Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack Norflus Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Eric what are the 1/2" metal hole plugs you are using? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Toline Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Eric what are the 1/2" metal hole plugs you are using? You can get them at Lowes or Home depot in the nuts & bolts hardware section. HD get's $1.44 each, Lowes gets $1.04 each. You'll have straighten out the prongs if you're using the hot glue filling so the glue grabs the prongs and bend one prong flat so it covers the cable if your notching the case for the cable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jack Norflus Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 This? http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100337428/1-2-in-nickel-plated-steel-hole-plug-reviews/reviews.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Toline Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 This? http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100337428/1-2-in-nickel-plated-steel-hole-plug-reviews/reviews.htm Yes, that's it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
al mcguire Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Can I get them in HOT and COLD ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mradlauer Posted September 23, 2013 Report Share Posted September 23, 2013 Thanks for all the various DIY info on making these rt angle xlrs, I'm ready to make some for my 664 inputs. Matt, I'm curious which Neutrik's you used as I would like to avoid having to cut down the connectors if possible. Was it this model (with internal thread) http://www.neutrik.com/en/xlr/xx-series/nc3mxx-wob or the neutrik posted earlier (with the M17x1 thread on the back)http://www.neutrik.com/en/accessories/modules/nm3mxi Both look like they would work, but looks like you might have used the former. Yes nm3xx connectors. Ive graduated from using the plastic caps to colored epoxy resin. They are much more durable than the caps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris G Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Thanks for all the replies and good info.. I'm putting a list together of supplies I need to order.. Hopefully all from one place. Do you guys add shrink or a tougher plastic sleeve to the cable near the point of exit? I imagine it's necessary to keep the cable from getting pinched/damaged. Jim, I'm curious to hear about your method that doesnt require filling in the connector. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eric Toline Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Thanks for all the replies and good info.. I'm putting a list together of supplies I need to order.. Hopefully all from one place. Do you guys add shrink or a tougher plastic sleeve to the cable near the point of exit? I imagine it's necessary to keep the cable from getting pinched/damaged. Jim, I'm curious to hear about your method that doesnt require filling in the connector. I use shrink tubing for color coding. Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mradlauer Posted September 24, 2013 Report Share Posted September 24, 2013 Thanks for all the replies and good info.. I'm putting a list together of supplies I need to order.. Hopefully all from one place. Do you guys add shrink or a tougher plastic sleeve to the cable near the point of exit? I imagine it's necessary to keep the cable from getting pinched/damaged. Jim, I'm curious to hear about your method that doesnt require filling in the connector. I double it up. A colored shrink and a black one just to stiffen it up a bit. So far my epoxy connectors are great! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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