Jim Rillie

I wish it was always that simple!

That’s what I understand.

I did a series last year where the DP wanted to shoot at true 24FPS because of worries concerning potential LED flicker. Post wanted to work at 23.976. Julian Daboll at Technicolor is the guy I like to talk to regarding these issues. The solution decided on for sound is 24/48.048 on the recorder , then they pull down later to 23.976 and 48K. Time code on the recorder, slates, and sync boxes was 24fps It just depends on what they will do post at. If they will continue at a true 24, then we would have done 24/48 on sound.

Lots of zeros and ones.

I just started using it tomorrow

To my ears, having used both, they are the speaker equivalent of 7506s (which I used for many years, but had to go away to something that more reflected what was really there) .

The Hydra board for the PSC sixpack works for all the receivers in that sixpack - 2 six-packs with Hydra equals 12 channels of Hydra info. you can adjust all major parameters from the Cantar interface, and the display is excellent. No more fiddling around with hard to read receiver displays and fussy little buttons. Definitely a big plus for ham fisted old codgers like me. OK, that's all. I should not get into the other reasons some of us use the Cantar. Demo one, if you can, and give it a few days. Then you will be a little better prepared to make that decision. Same goes for the Scorpio - try before you buy.

Thanks Joppe all is well. Winter is our usual down time here. Starting up series shooting in May. Best regards, Jim Rillie

The V3 travel version is a thing of beauty. We are very happy with both our v2 and v3 versions. Hope you are we'll, Joppe. Best regards, Jim Rillie

Only one of my CMITs exhibits this. The others are normal bump at startup. It is the second one I bought.

Use to do that tape and rubber band trick with my old Microns. They had fairly long cable antennas Channel 13 VHF.

Message Wrine x He is very responsive, and reliable.

iPower 9volts have worked well for us for years when bagging it. The ticking may be caused by other things, like an LED dimmer, or cell phones too close in my experience, anything that radiates RF, but your experience leads to battery.

Thanks, Vin. That is good to know.

I'm with Mr Gooch on this, not because I have any experience in Africa, but when working internationally as I have a few times, I would always recommend bringing your own equipment (assuming you have a kit). A Carnet makes international travelling with gear workable. Oftentimes your producer can get a Carnet for sound, and camera in the same document.

Thank, you Patrick. That is what I thought. I do currently adjust my receive 620s for that very reason, also using back pattern null for interfering signals. just like using a cardioid pattern on a mic to advantage.

Hello group, Is anyone using this antenna for comms? I am using a dipole at the moment for our crew comms signal from a DCHT to M2R receivers. Range is generally less than the incoming range of a DPR. Would like to get more usable signal range out to the crew with their M2Rs. Since the ALP 620 has a lot more gain than a dipole, will using the shark fin give us noticeably more range? Since the 620 is passive, I think the 50 mW signal will not harm the antenna. Or am i wrong? Best regards, Jim Rillie

Wow, never heard of that one in my experience.

We have found with an SNA 600 on the antenna mast connected to the transmitter with an extension cable, the range is much better.

Haven’t had any kinks. They have worked well from Day1. Our only issues have been with battery loading in the M2Rs. Very difficult to close the cover with rechargeable AAs. We always get them closed but with resistance. Hoping with age they will loosen up to a happy medium. And the sound is great. IMHO.

A shark fin is a log periodic antenna AFAIK.

I guess a lot of us have gas ; - )

Looks like CAT6 has 4 twisted pairs with claimed very low crosstalk. Maybe you could add XLR gender benders at each end on the returns, or roll your own XLR to ´Ethernet fanouts. Just a thought. No guarantees.

I have one, have been using it for about 4 or 5 years now. Mine is not regulated AFAIK (no options). The ability to turn stuff on and off individually from the K Art switches is great for regulating the cart current draw, and the power meter is great, just like the smaller boxes. I also have a BGDh with battery cup hard-wired for the doc setup. Never had any voltage issues, maybe because none of my outlets seem to be regulated. After all, most of the professional quality equipment we use already has its own regulation built in so to speak.

Maybe EV cardioid RE15s/? More reach than a 635, which was often used much closer than those overheads.