Jim Rillie

over the years with ArriAlexa variants, Regen has always worked for us. This is the way ;-}

maybe adjusting the knuckles will help... Also thorough cleaning.

We have been using both the CMIT and CMIT mini for several years and have never noticed that. In fact, no noticeable difference at all.

I have had this happen as well. Only once in a 90 day season. It was at the end of day, and removing and re inserting the battery worked, and I got to see what to do when it’s battery replacement time.

I like the CUT 60 on MK141. matches closer to the CMIT with its permanent 70 Hz cut off. I was always noticing more rumble when we switched to the 141. much closer in tone now. That's my 2 cents. We had couple of CUT 1s many years ago. Just weren't using them, so they were sold.

Boom boom nailed it for us simple folk😊

Yes, the red dot for the Lemo line-up is at an angle and the older mini RA Lemo plugs in at about a 10 o'clock angle on the LF. It fits, but a straight Lemo would be better.

The last sentence. Oh yes…

You could try using a 3/8 thread female to Panamic quick release adapter (picture attached), then the Panamic quick release stud. Audio Services in Toronto would have the adapter, or maybe another of the usual suspects will have one ... This of course is not needed if you have a Panamic boom with its stud attachment. no wiggle.

Check your power cables used for the SRB for continuity and polarity.

Thanks, Henri. I was of course thinking of the 50. But your idea of the tape to match diameter is a good one. The B5D with its air space is really very good with the Schoeps mics for interior booming - really transparent, but the issues Daniel mentions would lead me towards a Cosi or Nano shield.

B5D will not fit. It is designed for the Schoeps Collette system. A hard ring at base of windscreen with a smaller diameter than the MKH50. Someone out there will have a solution.

That sounds like what Roderick is looking for.

I think the Super CMIT would go into the AES 42 TA3 input, with AES 42 phantom powered on. AFAIK that still leaves the 8 AES3 inputs on the Dsub available for other digital sources. No idea how that will affect your overall power consumption, though I am sure the Cantar is designed to handle it.

That’s why I am hoping someone from Lectrosonics can clarify. May be the same situation.

I’m pretty sure with Lectro and COS11 the phase should be reversed. I believe the SSM in COS11 setting is phase reversed. I did it manually with SM transmitters and 411A receivers, usually at the receiver output. Hopefully someone from Lectro can clarify this.

Jeremy's suggestion is good. I have a CMS9 Sanken now discontinued but very similar to the CMS7 but with fixed XY matrix built in. It sounds very good and is extremely quiet. Heavy at the front end but on a stand with shock mount is fine. Excellent for loud or quiet ambiences. Not great for booming, but who uses a stereo mic to follow dialogue. (A whole new can of worms there)

VP 88 when I tried it back in the 90s had a lot of self-noise. Not really useable for quiet ambiences.

Never had to supply TC to Arri Alexas, Minis, etc any other way than sync boxes on TC in 5p. Lemo.

Aha. Didn’t recognize SL2.

Without any RF distro? How so?

Not voodoo, Johnny. Just physics. Somehow a combiner works to allow this, but I still believe separate transmitting antennas distanced properly will give better results. just my 2 non-existent Canadian cents

Me too

This opinion about left and right hand wind helical is just an opinion, and not one held by all experts in my experience. PWS recommends both antennas to have the same wind for a diversity pair

My Audioroot Neo 96s charge OK in The Purple Aaton charger. People generally recommend only 1 large battery at a time in this charger, BTW.