soundslikejustin Posted March 7, 2016 Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 18 hours ago, Jack Norflus said: Justin What connectors are those? They're low-profile USB connectors, similar to the ones Apple uses. You buy the pinset and the cover/grommet separately. Ive taken the 'lock' out, which is what stops the pinset going this far back into the cover. I've then drilled the right angle exit (the cable should come out of the back, and connected using Zaxlan wiring, and sealed the connector up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradTheSoundGuy Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Haven't been able to find this info yet so hopefully someone here who has done this before can help me. I'm looking to try my hand at some low profile cables including TA3 using the Rean connectors. I'm wondering how people are filling the connector with hot glue without it draining into the latching connector and ruining everything? I've viewed the tutorial on Alex's Toy Robot page where he recommends bending the shell-ground pin to stop this on larger connectors, but with the Rean this isn't an option. Also, with the depth of the barrel of the Rean connectors are you guys/gals notching a slot to get the cable in as opposed to drilling a hole? It seems awfully tight in there to do any soldering if you were feeding the cable through a hole. Of course, I don't have the experience many of you have so perhaps it just looks ridiculously daunting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundslikejustin Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 5 hours ago, BradTheSoundGuy said: Haven't been able to find this info yet so hopefully someone here who has done this before can help me. I'm looking to try my hand at some low profile cables including TA3 using the Rean connectors. I'm wondering how people are filling the connector with hot glue without it draining into the latching connector and ruining everything? I've viewed the tutorial on Alex's Toy Robot page where he recommends bending the shell-ground pin to stop this on larger connectors, but with the Rean this isn't an option. Also, with the depth of the barrel of the Rean connectors are you guys/gals notching a slot to get the cable in as opposed to drilling a hole? It seems awfully tight in there to do any soldering if you were feeding the cable through a hole. Of course, I don't have the experience many of you have so perhaps it just looks ridiculously daunting! Others may do it differently. Here's my method. Use a small piece of blu-tac to cover the foam 'spring' from the hot glue. Or, just be more accurate with how you pump it in there - let it dry in sections. I notch out all the small connectors (TA3, TA5, 3.5mm etc), it's EXTREMELY difficult to solder through a hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Maybe this is an asshole thing to say in this post but after spending a not insignificant amount of time on 'right angle' connectorizing I've come to the conclusion that straight connectors are just fine, more mechanically sound, and easier. They are nice in a few spots though I agree, end of boom pole obviously. I hate that the 688 is so damn wide and almost requires them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Constantin Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Maybe this is an asshole thing to say in this post but after spending a not insignificant amount of time on 'right angle' connectorizing I've come to the conclusion that straight connectors are just fine, more mechanically sound, and easier. [emoji6] They are nice in a few spots though I agree, end of boom pole obviously. I hate that the 688 is so damn wide and almost requires them... Ha, I love it, what a great conclusion to this thread! Kidding, of course, but after reading through most of this thread, I have come to a similar conclusion: maybe those professionally made connectors are not that expensive after all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Davies Amps CAS Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Slight personal critique The leads would have looked a lot better if the cables had exited at 7 O'clock instead of 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradTheSoundGuy Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 6 hours ago, soundslikejustin said: Others may do it differently. Here's my method. Use a small piece of blu-tac to cover the foam 'spring' from the hot glue. Or, just be more accurate with how you pump it in there - let it dry in sections. I notch out all the small connectors (TA3, TA5, 3.5mm etc), it's EXTREMELY difficult to solder through a hole. Fantastic idea - thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aural Fixation Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 On 3/10/2016 at 0:35 AM, BradTheSoundGuy said: Haven't been able to find this info yet so hopefully someone here who has done this before can help me. I'm looking to try my hand at some low profile cables including TA3 using the Rean connectors. I'm wondering how people are filling the connector with hot glue without it draining into the latching connector and ruining everything? I've viewed the tutorial on Alex's Toy Robot page where he recommends bending the shell-ground pin to stop this on larger connectors, but with the Rean this isn't an option. Also, with the depth of the barrel of the Rean connectors are you guys/gals notching a slot to get the cable in as opposed to drilling a hole? It seems awfully tight in there to do any soldering if you were feeding the cable through a hole. Of course, I don't have the experience many of you have so perhaps it just looks ridiculously daunting! Yes, notched. But also drilled. The hole is exactly the size of the cable giving some relief, but with the notch ever so lightly smaller in opening, it "bites" into the heat shrink without tearing it. Provides a nice strain relief without trying to fish a ziptie in there. As for hot glue: Apply in stages. First, make certain the connector is secured and won't move upon insertion. If the hot glue is too thick to get past my cable, I heat it with a gun until it runs down. Because the metal housing stays warm, it keeps the glue liquidy and I can press more in with the gun. All the while, I'm working the spring latch, and keeping it mostly pressed down, so the glue can't reach the sponge. It won't adhere to metal all that great so if you keep working it as it sets, it'll not stick and everything moves just fine. On 3/10/2016 at 9:47 AM, Derek H said: Maybe this is an asshole thing to say in this post but after spending a not insignificant amount of time on 'right angle' connectorizing I've come to the conclusion that straight connectors are just fine, more mechanically sound, and easier. They are nice in a few spots though I agree, end of boom pole obviously. I hate that the 688 is so damn wide and almost requires them... Agreed, but that I just like the way they look and enjoy modifying things. What has me most hung up is that the cable has only one function. Change a piece of gear or mod the bag for just a day and these cables might be completely useless. BUT, for an ENG go bag that is always prepped and ready to go ANYWHERE because it's as tight and unbreakable as possible, this is the only way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rachel Cameron Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Wasserman Posted March 26, 2016 Report Share Posted March 26, 2016 Nice work, Rachel! Those TA3s are TEENY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linne Beck Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 First post - Many thanks for all the ideas here on this forum. I still have to solder this one but i already like how this looks and feels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aural Fixation Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 Frido, what kind of cap did you use? That looks really nice. Here is what I came up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rachel Cameron Posted March 31, 2016 Report Share Posted March 31, 2016 On March 26, 2016 at 8:50 PM, Karl Wasserman said: Nice work, Rachel! Those TA3s are TEENY. Thank you Karl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linne Beck Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) 22 hours ago, Aural Fixation said: Frido, what kind of cap did you use? That looks really nice. Here is what I came up with. Hi, thanks. The receipt says translated to English 'Insert cap circular', Not really specific. I picked it up at a local hardware store for 30 eurocent each. I only had to cut off some of the plastic screw-thread and it fit well. Fixed but not too tight so its removable with fingers. Btw - your's matches nice with the battery cap of the 633 Edited April 1, 2016 by Frido Beck Additional sentence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aural Fixation Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Thanks, Frido. That was the intent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfxdude Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 On 3/31/2016 at 8:34 AM, Frido Beck said: First post - Many thanks for all the ideas here on this forum. I still have to solder this one but i already like how this looks and feels That looks very nice, can you tell me where you got the silver xlr holder who makes it? or is that something you made ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Linne Beck Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfxdude Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Hey Frido thanks for the info on the holder, I will check that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark kirchner Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 http://www.trewaudio.com/product/ambient-qat-eco-top-tip-eco/ Closer to home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfxdude Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Thanks ya just a little closer, and in english :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackHenry Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 If the XLR strain relief chuck and bushing are designed to work when the bushing is screwed down firmly onto the chuck, how does putting a 2 or 3 mm spacer between the shell and bushing effect that strain relief?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 4 hours ago, JackHenry said: If the XLR strain relief chuck and bushing are designed to work when the bushing is screwed down firmly onto the chuck, how does putting a 2 or 3 mm spacer between the shell and bushing effect that strain relief?? If you're using it with a the latest style neutrik XLRs there is a removable/replaceable ring between the chuck and the shell which if removed should allow you to get the strain relief needed. Although the ring seems to be in place in the photo presented for the HB CC one so YMMV. The ambient 1 is pictured with the older type XLR (which is a different matter). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackHenry Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 But that ring is a lot thicker than the Ambient device (I use them for colour coding). So wouldn't removing the ring leave it a bit 'floppy'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark kirchner Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 If you look closely at the photograph of the Ambient mounting device. The XLR mounting hole has been reduced in thickness. The new style neutrik XLRs fit perfectly, but only in one direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundtrane Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Been using the ambient unit for years now. the part where the XLR fits is thinner, thereby allowing the boot to sit inside this thinner circumference. It's perfect is all i can say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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