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Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
772 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 2.5k views
Hey guys, I just received a second hand Lectrosonics mm400c today. I put a brand new battery in and tried to power it up, but had no success. Long story short, here are some steps I found useful for a possible quick fix. If the LEDs do not turn on then chances are the switch is to blame. The housing of these units is fully enclosed and power on is done with a magnetic button through the outer wall (waterproof design). Sometimes magnets might fall too far out of alignment and need to be sent in, but give this a try before the hassle. Picture 1 shows the magnet switch at off. Slide it to the middle where you will see to nubs that hold the button in tact expos…
Last reply by LarryF, -
- 5 replies
- 1.3k views
I have a couple of questions about direct output mods for a mixer I have. I hope someone can give me a little more insight. The mixer is a JVC mi2000u. I've contacted JVC and they no longer provide support for this old beast. My plan was to tap the hot signals from the PFL switch, and was told by a former teacher and electronics guru to ground as close to or on the power supply, and I could even ground to the main output if need be. I was going to use a 9 pin d-sub with a breakout on the other side, as I've seen others here use. The advice I got was to use a heavier gauge wire from the ground of the power supply to the dsub on the back panel because: "Any c…
Last reply by Rakesh Anderson, -
- 2 followers
- 18 replies
- 2.7k views
Over the years, there have been occasions where I have turned down my Comtek feed in order to mute it from the listeners between takes, and then forget to turn it back up when we roll. Since there are times when it's appropriate for the sound crew to keep the mics up for our own technical reasons, but at the same time keep the mics muted to the "public", I needed to make myself some kind of reminder to unmute the feed when we roll. I finally built a simple little box that would switch off the Aux send to the transmitter and at the same time, flash a bright red battery-powered LED to signal the muting. Turned out to be very useful.
Last reply by soundperson, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 12.7k views
Hi! I want to record some foley footsteps in different surfaces, I know that footsteps in sand, grass and stones (and others) use to be simulated with kinda trays like this and i know that the best way to have a good sound for footsteps in thick and solid surfaces like cement or concrete, tiles, marble etc... is to have it built in the very ground like this unfortunately I can´t have it... so I want to make a few DIY transportable surfaces (around 1m square) and I would like to know how to avoid unwanted resonances in surfaces like concrete or tiles. I appreciate any advice and every experience about how to record foley footsteps properly…
Last reply by myke2241, -
- 1 reply
- 1.5k views
www.nu9n.com/tpad-calculator.html
Last reply by rofin, -
- 2 followers
- 21 replies
- 5.4k views
Here is my first attempt at making a small LiFePO4 battery pack. The parts shown are: $10.95 Pelican 1010 Mico Case $31.60 (4x) LiFePO4 26650 3400mAh cells $6.45 PCB-LFP12.8V2A Protection Circuit Module $31.95 H01280007-US-D1 LiFePO4 12.8V 0.7A Charger $7.04 (8x) Keystone 87 C Battery Holders some solder, some hookup wire, glue, and a spare 2.5mm female jack Total cost was under $90. For a 3.2Ah battery pack, this may not seem like a great deal. If you take out the cost of the charger, it is around $60. A Sony NP-F970 is $103 from B&H and is 6300mAh @ 7.2V, so these batteries probably have about the same power, only the cu…
Last reply by Tom Visser, -
- 4 replies
- 2.9k views
Using the Pelican 1300 for a batt case is pretty common, and several sound houses have long sold custom assembled ones. However, it has been my observation that the resulting weight clearly exceeds what the Pelican 1300 was designed for. As such, I've always been attentive to the pins that hold the handle to the case, which can be problematic on Pelican cases in general but pose a substantial safety concern here. On the 1300 the pin can easily work its way out of one of the two thin blades of plastic on each side of the handle, and you might have a drop occur. You do not want the battery-loaded case falling on your foot or anyone else's. Here's a simple mod I did to …
Last reply by Jeff Wexler, -
- 2 followers
- 16 replies
- 4.8k views
Hi all, I'm currently in the process of building a manual switch box so that I can switch between 2 sources into 1 input on my 552. The two sources are a fig8 mic and a line level out radio receiver. I'd switch to the fig8 mic when recording ambiences and switch back to the radio receiver at all other times. I did have a thought of making the switch box a bit more elegant by having it automatically switch when phantom power was applied. I would only need phantom power for the mic so I could maybe set up a relay energise via phantom power and switch contacts over to the mic. It would save having to dig into my bag and also avoid accidentally knocking the switch …
Last reply by Matt Morris, -
- 1 follower
- 27 replies
- 5.3k views
I need: 4-pin male XLR to female XLR (connects my power source to my mixer) 4-pin male XLR to 4-pin Hirose (connects my power source to the Nomad) 4-pin male XLR to ?? (connects my power source to my QRX100 that I just ordered) Coiled XLR male to female So, I was curious as to whether its cheaper to buy or DIY. Does anyone have a good/cheap source for parts? Any info would be great. Thanks, Mike
Last reply by rofin, -
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
I have a Phonak neckloop with the original comtek plug removed. there are 3 cores (green, brown, white) and a shield. Anyone know how this could be terminated to work with a Sennheiser G3 receiver? Thanks in advance
Last reply by studiomprd, -
- 18 replies
- 2.6k views
Why? I have been kicking around the idea of a mixer with a crossfader for a long time now. Maybe it is from my days in NYC where I toyed around with DJ'ing (failing miserably) but I have always been enamored with the idea of using the DJ style crossfader. I searched long and hard, looking at almost every DJ mixer out there, to find something that I could adapt to my workflow. Nothing but the Allen & Heath XONE mixers came close, but not close enough, by a long shot. The XONE 464 is basically a WZ3 class mixer with some phono / stereo center section added, but was not adaptable to my needs. I found this baby randomly, absolutely no information on the web about it …
Last reply by Jeff Wexler, -
- 3 replies
- 2.3k views
nice http://www.designspa...ectrum-analyser http://uk.girltech.com/electronics-imMe.aspx
Last reply by Jim Gilchrist, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 9.4k views
I welded some handles to my rt 10 cart. They make a huge difference in the manuverability of the thing. The top deck when bolted tight makes the cart a lot more rigid. I used scraps I had lying around so it didn't cost much. I used water pipe (mild steel) 1/2 inch inner diameter for the handles because the outer diameter fit BMX grips perfectly. The deck is made of plywood with square steel bars that hold the whole thing togther. Undo the 4 bolts that hold the shelf to the cart and it folds down, and even with the handles sticking up, fits in the trunk of my tiny Hyundai. Rakesh
Last reply by Geoff Tirrell, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
I am building a power system for my "soon to be" first cart. I use AC power 9 times out of 10 (while on the cart), so I plan on using an AC-DC converter (possibly this-http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-rs-150-15-power-supply.html) to power a 788T/CL8, Lectro VR Field, an occasional extra UCR411 and my Zaxcom stereo transmitter. but, I want to use my Goldmount 6ah batteries as a backup supply incase of a kickout or no available grid power. My question is- Can I do this without damaging (sending 15 volts/10 amps) to my Li-ion batteries? I don't want to charge the batteries (or make them explode!), I just want to use them as a backup supply. If the …
Last reply by jason porter, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
Hi everyone, I just stumbled over http://www.shapeways.com and thought about what could be made with it for our use. mic suspensions, lav concealers? Any ideas welcome. Maybe we could come up with a simple project.
Last reply by Blas Kisic, -
- 2 replies
- 696 views
Hey...I forgot to order a couple of panel mount 4 pin XLRs for the patch bay I'm building this weekend and now everything's closed. Oops. Trouble is the patch bay needs to be done Monday. If anyone's got two lying around that they could loan or sell me and bail me out of a jam, I'd be most grateful! I can come pick them up for you if you're in the boroughs. Thanks much if you can help!
Last reply by Noah Timan, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
Someone recently posted some pics of a cable they made to go from ERX1 to XLR and BNC. I saw the pic briefly while I was working and wanted to come back and look at it again in detail but for the life of me I can't find the post!
Last reply by RadoStefanov, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
At NAB this year I purchased a great book on wiring audio cable ( http://www.amazon.ca...s/dp/0240520068 ) and have been busy ever since practicing and making all sorts of custom cables for different needs that I previously would have either just bought or used different turnarounds etc. With that said, I'm feeling a confident/adventurous and want to try my hand at repairing a lectro power switch. I bought a 201 used last year that came with the power switch completely broken off. I've been using a tweaker tool to turn it on and off with no issue, but it's time to restore it the way it should be. I purchased the power switch, and without having opened up the Lec…
Last reply by greg sextro, -
- 10 replies
- 1.7k views
Potentially stupid question...have any of you used the Middle Atlantic UNI-1 patch panels with the laser-cut "knockouts" for the XLR connectors? Here, at the top of this page: http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/chassis/chassis.htm If so, can anyone recommend a good tool for removing the "knockouts" efficiently and quickly? Thanks!
Last reply by Noah Timan, -
- 2 followers
- 26 replies
- 6.9k views
I am thinking about building my own battery eliminator for my Sennheiser G3's. Of course there is always the option of buying their DC-2, but at $65 (without a connector) I am sure I could build one for about a third of the price. So I would like to get all of your thoughts on my design and components. Basic design is put one of theses 3.3v 1A voltage regulators: (specs here: http://www.dimension...oducts/de-sw033) inside two of these AA adapter shells ( somehow glued together and the inside sides notched out to fit the regulator) Attach my wires, terminate with my connector and call it a day? Can it be that simple? About $20 including ship…
Last reply by Geoff Tirrell, -
- 9 replies
- 1.5k views
hopefully any electronic gurus around: I have a small DC/DC converter (to isolate a 12V device) that works when powered of a Li-Ion NP1 battery but doesn´t when powered of a SLA battery. converter: wide input range 9-18V, regulated 12V output, 3W load (IFB100): draws 104mA / 12V what is the difference between the NP1 and a SLA? Since the converter works from 9-18V both batteries are within the specs on paper. I have attached an Elko 10.000 mikroF / 25V to the input - no success. Any ideas? Matthias
Last reply by LarryF, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
Im about to possibly screw up a Mac Mini. I have the P1900, dc to dc inverter, as I'm cheaper than borscht I wasn't paying $30.00 plus another $30+ is shipping and duty for their interconnect cable. I managed to find one for $3.00. I'm assuming that the color code pig tails on the cable match the color code on the P1900. Usually when I assume something I get it wrong. Anybody been there? Anything else to watch out for? I want the simplest hook up possible for my tiny brain to get around it.
Last reply by thepiasa, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
I just use the hell out of my 744s (the "Telecaster" of file recorders), but a situation came up where I needed 4 discrete analog outs of the 4 channels to be able to do a quick mix during playback of some takes (be able to drop channels out, change level relationships). The 744 has only 1 2-chan analog output bus. A long while back I mentioned the Gefen DIGAAUD DAC--which will take the AES out of the 744's Output bus #2 (digital only) and convert it to analog (while running on DC--w/ supplied PSU or a homebrew battery pack w/ 4 AAs). This worked out great yesterday--I got my 4 analog outs with each channel split out. The Gefen box is cheap and tiny--a little over an …
Last reply by Philip Perkins, -
- 3 replies
- 1.1k views
Hi, I've been looking at this guide: http://www.lectrosonics.com/component/option,com_fss/Itemid,81/catid,4/kbartid,10/view,kb/ but it becomes a little bit confusing to know how to wire the 4063 model (not the 4060 or 4061 higher voltage models) for my SMV/SMQV transmitters. Would I just take fig.3 and put a 4 Kohm resistor since the 4063 takes less voltage ?
Last reply by Boomboom, -
- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
I recently purchased a very nice bloop slate from another JWsound member. After receiving it I figured I'd just use the clip on the unit, but then realized it would fit perfectly in one of the stock Petrol pouches. The only issue was there was no hole in the Petrol Pouch for either the light or the piezoelectric speaker (this unit is capable of line level XLR out only - no piezo - or line level signal plus acoustic piezo output). So a few holes later and I now have a custom bloop slate & matching semi-custom pouch! P.S. For anyone interested in the actual slate, it was made custom by Cramped Attic in Vancouver. It's really a wonderful unit and is built extre…
Last reply by soundslikejustin,
