Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
754 topics in this forum
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- 10 replies
- 1.6k views
Potentially stupid question...have any of you used the Middle Atlantic UNI-1 patch panels with the laser-cut "knockouts" for the XLR connectors? Here, at the top of this page: http://www.middleatlantic.com/rackac/chassis/chassis.htm If so, can anyone recommend a good tool for removing the "knockouts" efficiently and quickly? Thanks!
Last reply by Noah Timan, -
- 2 followers
- 26 replies
- 6.6k views
I am thinking about building my own battery eliminator for my Sennheiser G3's. Of course there is always the option of buying their DC-2, but at $65 (without a connector) I am sure I could build one for about a third of the price. So I would like to get all of your thoughts on my design and components. Basic design is put one of theses 3.3v 1A voltage regulators: (specs here: http://www.dimension...oducts/de-sw033) inside two of these AA adapter shells ( somehow glued together and the inside sides notched out to fit the regulator) Attach my wires, terminate with my connector and call it a day? Can it be that simple? About $20 including ship…
Last reply by Geoff Tirrell, -
- 9 replies
- 1.4k views
hopefully any electronic gurus around: I have a small DC/DC converter (to isolate a 12V device) that works when powered of a Li-Ion NP1 battery but doesn´t when powered of a SLA battery. converter: wide input range 9-18V, regulated 12V output, 3W load (IFB100): draws 104mA / 12V what is the difference between the NP1 and a SLA? Since the converter works from 9-18V both batteries are within the specs on paper. I have attached an Elko 10.000 mikroF / 25V to the input - no success. Any ideas? Matthias
Last reply by LarryF, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
Im about to possibly screw up a Mac Mini. I have the P1900, dc to dc inverter, as I'm cheaper than borscht I wasn't paying $30.00 plus another $30+ is shipping and duty for their interconnect cable. I managed to find one for $3.00. I'm assuming that the color code pig tails on the cable match the color code on the P1900. Usually when I assume something I get it wrong. Anybody been there? Anything else to watch out for? I want the simplest hook up possible for my tiny brain to get around it.
Last reply by thepiasa, -
- 1 reply
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I just use the hell out of my 744s (the "Telecaster" of file recorders), but a situation came up where I needed 4 discrete analog outs of the 4 channels to be able to do a quick mix during playback of some takes (be able to drop channels out, change level relationships). The 744 has only 1 2-chan analog output bus. A long while back I mentioned the Gefen DIGAAUD DAC--which will take the AES out of the 744's Output bus #2 (digital only) and convert it to analog (while running on DC--w/ supplied PSU or a homebrew battery pack w/ 4 AAs). This worked out great yesterday--I got my 4 analog outs with each channel split out. The Gefen box is cheap and tiny--a little over an …
Last reply by Philip Perkins, -
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- 1k views
Hi, I've been looking at this guide: http://www.lectrosonics.com/component/option,com_fss/Itemid,81/catid,4/kbartid,10/view,kb/ but it becomes a little bit confusing to know how to wire the 4063 model (not the 4060 or 4061 higher voltage models) for my SMV/SMQV transmitters. Would I just take fig.3 and put a 4 Kohm resistor since the 4063 takes less voltage ?
Last reply by Boomboom, -
- 4 replies
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I recently purchased a very nice bloop slate from another JWsound member. After receiving it I figured I'd just use the clip on the unit, but then realized it would fit perfectly in one of the stock Petrol pouches. The only issue was there was no hole in the Petrol Pouch for either the light or the piezoelectric speaker (this unit is capable of line level XLR out only - no piezo - or line level signal plus acoustic piezo output). So a few holes later and I now have a custom bloop slate & matching semi-custom pouch! P.S. For anyone interested in the actual slate, it was made custom by Cramped Attic in Vancouver. It's really a wonderful unit and is built extre…
Last reply by soundslikejustin, -
- 14 replies
- 2.9k views
Has anyone tried to replace a boom pole grip? I've got a very much used Rode boom sitting in a corner of my loft which I'm thinking about bringing back to action as a secondary boom. The grip is quite worn out though. Would anyone recommend something else to replace it with? Is it replaceable really?
Last reply by Geoff Tirrell, -
- 8 replies
- 5.1k views
Ive noticed that not all "clear" heat shrink tubing is alike - I have plenty of "clear" or so its advertised as. But I find that what they sell as "clear" is not that clear but a bit cloudy and its difficult to see through. I have used some tubing that is "crystal clear" and very transparent - but I can't seem to find it and anytime I order some it turns out to be the cloudy stuff. Any leads on the "crystal clear" stuff?
Last reply by Matt Radlauer, -
- 10 replies
- 5.8k views
Hi all, I am new here. The only thing I have soldered in the past are straight XLR and TRS cables. I need some assistance in making a new cable. I already have the tools, the connectors, and some spare starquad. I would like to make a cable that is as follows: 3.5mm TRS to (2) XLRf I do not want the cable to act as a splitter. I want each XLRf connector to have a different channel. My intention is to feed a device with ONE stereo input (3.5mmTRS) signals from two different audio sources with XLR outputs This cable will only be 2-3ft. long. My thoughts: The tip of the TRS connector will get pin2HOT from the first XLRf The ring o…
Last reply by sounddguy, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
Anyone have a source for these? I can't seem to find any. I am looking for just the sled if possible, to keep costs low.
Last reply by RadoStefanov, -
- 2 followers
- 38 replies
- 16k views
I am building a small cart and need to have a DC power supply that lives on the cart. I see a bunch of people have batteries inside pelican or ammo cases and I would like to go this route. Weight is not a big issue a this point because I wanna keep cost down. Where do I buy the battery? and how do I wire it to the 4 pin XLR to power my BDS distro? Keenan
Last reply by Malcolm Davies Amps CAS, -
- 13 replies
- 2.4k views
I'm finally getting a chance to update my cart which will involve getting some aluminum drawers. Since I'm going to change up the size etc. the existing rack mount holes won't work. Wondering if anyone has gone through the process of mounting these rivets in aluminum themselves, or is it best to take to a machine shop.
Last reply by Jason A, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
I finally broke down and bought down-converters for my cat 5 video assist. I had a Pelican 1300 I got for free, but I could have used a 1200. The connectors are all flush mount. They are expensive, but I did not want bent feed through connectors. All the connections are all BNC, no more RCA adapters! The cables are labeled on both ends with Panduit lables. I put a common switching supply in it, and a 40mm fan I can turn on if it gets too hot. It also has 4 video lines in the balun, so I can feed NTSC tuners down 3&4 without rewiring my converters, and just patch them in at the cart.
Last reply by Phil Palmer, -
- 9 replies
- 3.7k views
I have a pair of Sony 7506 headphones that developed a break partway down the cable. I have cut out the bad section and now need to splice back together the two cables. There are two things I am confused about and wondering if anyone can shed some light. 1. The internal wires are colored and remind me of annodized aluminum. There is no jacket around each individual wire as they are each twisted around each other. This surprised me as I am used to dealing with separate wires each with jackets. 2. I can't get solder to adhere to the cable. I tried both a 15 and 25 watt iron with 62/32/2 rosin core solder. It just won't bond to the Sony wires. Any sugges…
Last reply by BVS, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 1.6k views
Took out the two headphone/return wires from the camera site. Put a Mogami quad in their place. Split the quad in to two wires. Secured the solder connection part with plenty of zip ties. Used high quality headphone male and female plugs.
Last reply by cactuskid, -
- 9 replies
- 1.6k views
After troubleshooting in my spare time regarding a distortion issue I was having with one of my G2 wirelesses, I learned that the female input connector to the G2 receiver was loose. I've delved into replacing antennas on some of my G2s and they all worked out great. I found very useful information on this site as well as the JW facebook page as to replacing the antennas, BTW. However, any tips on resoldering the 3.5 mm female connector on the G2? Or has that process proven to be too intricate that it has to be sent to Sennheiser for repair?
Last reply by Eric Toline, -
- 13 replies
- 17.7k views
I've been having a bit of a nightmare trying to rewire an old sennheiser MKE2, no matter how hot the iron is, the solder won't stick. Does the wire need cleaning (I've scraped away with a craft knife a bit)? If so, with what?
Last reply by Matt Martin, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
To facilitate fast moving multi camera TV Shows that exist today I have improved upon Trew Audio's video Asist Kit. This Video Balun System allows me to transport 4 channels of composite video over 1 CAT-5e cable. My improvements enclose it inside a die-cast aluminum box and mount an EtherCON connector to once side and the BNCs to the other. The EtherCON cable is tougher than XLR due to its multi strand nature inside a tough jacket. This will allow a mixer to see 4 separate camera feeds at his cart from far away with only a single cat-5 run. Posted in order of production; sort of a step by step. Drill Holes
Last reply by Nicole Hankerson, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
- 4.4k views
As you may know, Ambient changed the design of their QP line of boom poles last year from matte black coated carbon fiber to a shiny weave of carbon fiber. Since buying a new QP-4140 last year, I've run into a couple of problems with it reflecting bright light sources that hit it directly. Normally you can cross a bright light source as long as it doesn't cast a shadow into frame or change the light level but the new design reflects light so this isn't always possible. In the attached pictures, there was a Source 4 to my right firing into the cabinet on the left and I was booming someone under it. If I were to barely break the beam of light, a ring of light reflected…
Last reply by Jerry B, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 2k views
I will be recieving my 788t today and a bag and a BDS, my CL8 and CLwifi next week along with 3 more channels lectro SR/SMV and I already have a great boom kit. I will build my bag rig first and then over the next year transition onto a cart. I will continue to post on my progress. In preparation to utility the third season of the walking dead I am building on Trew Audios Video Assist kit. The main difference in mine is durability and use. First off every show I have been on does not need audio from or to the sound cart from video village. We just need video. My system uses the muxlab 500037 to give us 4 BNC inputs/outputs and no audio. I am going to install all th…
Last reply by Jesse Watts, -
- 4 replies
- 3.6k views
Here is a picture of my custom Stereo XY mic setup for use with the RODE Blimp, x2 Apex 185 Cardiods. 185 Mount is Attached to a Bendable Tripod (Via Tape) and the tripod is bent around the Blimp to line up the capsules.
Last reply by greg sextro, -
- 5 replies
- 1.1k views
So some of you might have seen my thread about my recent frustrations with my newer Pelican cases. Well I bought a used Jan-Al case off the great auction site, and once it arrived I proceeded almost immediately with gutting it. Anyways I'll post more photos of the work, but I wanted to share a video of how useful an oscillating tool is for odd jobs like stripping foam off of wood. Sorry for the focus
Last reply by Spencer Moore, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 654 views
I was just curious if any Sonosax users out there could direct me to "Jumper S8" to change the default channel power status to ON at power-up (Mute Off). I haven't been able to track down the schematic and I assume the guys at Sonosax are out for the weekend. There are no indications printed on the PCB. A quick trace didn't come up with any answers... I'm assuming the function is logic controlled. **Edit**--Sorry, I meant to mention in the title that this is in regards to an SX-ST Thanks! Wyatt
Last reply by Wyatt Tuzo, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
I've read the documentation for the pinouts going into an iPad (4 pin mini TRRS), but my question has to do with attenuating the signal: According the the Movie Slate website, one should look to attenuate the TC signal by about -22db so it doesn't overload the mic input. Anyone know what rated resistor would do this? Would I just wire it inline of the hot signal and leave the ground untouched? Thanks, -Greg-
Last reply by Derek H,
