Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
814 topics in this forum
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Wondering if anyone knows how to disassemble an HM. I've got a short in the connector. Shorts when moved. Trying to fix today for quick turn around. I'm hoping this is a simple broken wire or connection as the manual states "do not have the local repair shop attempt anything other than the simplest repair. If the repair is more complicated than a broken wire or loose connection, send the unit to the factory for repair and service."
Last reply by seth, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
I can't find this. Do DBSM/DBSMD TA5 timecode Jam cables use normal line level wiring?
Last reply by Johnny Karlsson, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 809 views
Just curious if there is a small size product available or better yet if anyone has done a DIY project for sequencing power to devices from battery distribution. I am finding in a particular situation now that if I could flip the switch and then program power to a specific device to turn on 15 seconds later, it would work wonders. I have a furman M8S At home that sort of triggered the idea of it.
Last reply by osa, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 976 views
hi, Would anyone have experience opening this adapter for re wiring? I've taken the screws out and twisted, but wanted to ask, to avoid breaking it. thanks Rodrigo
Last reply by rosa, -
- 7 replies
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Hi, Just done a repair to a Sound Devices SD302 headphone socket. Was a fairly easy job. SD supplied the part to do the fix. Part numbers are on the pics. Remove side panel and XLRs from the SD302 and you should have enough space to work. The original socket had its PCB connector glued to the receptacle on the board. This glue comes off with a sharp flat driver. simply install the new PCB connector and do the reverse of the dismantle to re-assemble. Only thing I had to do was trim the heatshrink on the new socket to make it fit better.
Last reply by Rick Reineke, -
- 2 replies
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Hi, I’d had a 4061 repaired by somebody a few years ago as it had been damaged at the capsule end. The repair held up for a little bit but eventually died again. at that point I gave it a go myself and have done a pretty solid repair of the mic now. the only thing is that the guy who did the original repair had removed the material(looks almost like wax) that DPA pot the capsule in. I’m looking to use the repaired mic as a “beater” mic for salt water shoots(I’ve got to mic up a jetski in a few weeks’ time), but I worry that my exposed solder joints won’t take too kindly to the prolonged exposure to salt water, no matter how ca…
Last reply by Bobobob, -
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- 11 replies
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AS NOTED BELOW, any use of this information in entirely AT YOUR OWN RISK and may damage your equipment. Being a huge nerd I simply had to try connecting in to my SRc via serial. I haven't had any luck finding a command reference from Lectro but I've been able to get it talking to my mac over USB, and I've figured out the serial equivalents of most of the menu items. I'll attach what I've found so far. The things I can't yet get to happen are IR sync, scanning, and smart tune. Some or all of this may be wrong, this is just an afternoon's hacking project. Feel free to correct me where needed. SRc (1).txt
Last reply by Erin Bliss, -
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- 5 replies
- 5k views
I am a wedding DJ that takes a serious interest in ceremony sound. For some time now I have been loading up a Muver6 folding cart to house 2 to 3 SKB cases along with battery power, a pelican case, and a cable bag, and I am trying to get a bit more streamlined. What is funny is that I started thinking of a "big wheel" cart for this use before I was even aware that many pro film and other sound engineers have been doing this for a number of years. I ran across a thread here from way back in 2012 that more or less touches on the concept I am thinking about I work with modularity in mind. I have two mic "boxes" that I can go hot with up to 8 mics. Although t…
Last reply by S Harber, -
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- 3 replies
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Hi all, I have a couple old COS11 that i don't use to mic people with anymore. The cable jacket got kinda stiff with the time and i switched to DPA for lav since a couple of films already. I do use them a lot in car rigs and i was thinking of modifying a couple to be a gooseneck mic which would be much faster to rig and adjust. I am now looking for a small gooseneck where i could feed the COS11 cable into, glue the mic on one end and solder the connector on the other. My question to you guys is has any of you already try this? With success or not? has anyone found the perfect gooseneck to realise this mod? I tried to use the gooseneck of these small Ikea USB LED…
Last reply by Constantin, -
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I am going to wire an older AT899(cW) for a Sennheiser G4 3.5mm. Am I correct that I connet the Mic (white) to the tip and tie the Bias(red) and ground to both the ring and sleeve?
Last reply by Michael Render, -
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Working on a cart build and curious how people secure their 8 series to their carts? I’m aware of the 1/4 20 thread on the bottom, is anyone using that? If so what are you screwing it into? Obviously I can throw it in a bag and just plop the bag on the cart but looking for a more permanent solution so the mixer can live on the cart. The cart is going to have standard rack spaces so anything that could interface within them would be perfect.
Last reply by Constantin, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 4k views
I needed to rewire a XLR5F to 2-XLR3M splitter. (It turns out that DMX pin assignments are not the same as audio) I normally keep my Hakko at 750F, but that didn't even make a dent in the solder joints. I had to go to 850 and barely got flow. Is this normal these days? Has anyone else experienced this? I am a not great with solder, but I usually don't have this much trouble. Any advice from experienced solderers would be appreciated.
Last reply by Michael Render, -
- 1 reply
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I've made some panels out of Johns Manville SuperDuct RC duct boards wrapped in Guilford of Maine Anchorage. They're huge (70" x 44") and cover the inside of my whisper room. I thought I'd just nail up the panels with small nails since I didn't make frames, wanted the panels themselves to be flush with corners. The question is whether the fiberglass is strong enough to hold its own weight on the wall? Has anyone tried? I have a fear of the panels just sliding down around the nail like butter but I'm not sure if that's valid, or if it's rigid enough to just stay put.
Last reply by TVPostSound, -
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Here's a couple of cart projects that may give you some ideas for your cart. I made a small folding table top for the top of the cart. It's a handy little space to put things while working on something or making adjustments. It sets up and folds away quickly. The table is made from some thin hardwood stock that is available online. The two pieces are held together by gluing sturdy fabric (duck cloth) on the back side. The supports are 3/4" aluminum stock that is bent around the antenna posts. Everything folds away when not in use. I like to drink coffee all day from a mug. These coffee cup holders from T-Nutz work well for mugs or tall drink holder…
Last reply by Paul F, -
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- 3 replies
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Hi everyone, I just bought the mixpre 10t ii last week, and on my first shoot (which got canceled before it even began, no less) I somehow managed to shear off the exterior of the headphone connector. No idea how this happened, and my headphone's 1/8" jack is not bent or damaged either. See the attached photos. SD offered to fix it, but I won't have a recorder for 2 weeks and would have to pay for inbound shipping. They alternatively offered to send me a replacement part, but were specific in not being able to offer guidance on how to DIY the repair, which is understandable. Rather than take it to a reseller for repair and spend ~$75-150, I was won…
Last reply by Johnny Karlsson, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 5.7k views
Hello I recently modded my sennheiser G4. what kind of sma antenna to cut do you suggest to use? I found zaxcom (straight version that is in kit 2 pieces to be cutted) for around 28$ kit. There is also audioroot swivel version for 30$ each one (60$ for 2). Remote audio miracle whip (straight version) 60$ for 2 antennas. The zaxcom ones seems the cheaper one. Are zaxcom good? Is the swivel version of the sma connector worth for the extra price? Thanks
Last reply by igomarsound, -
- 3 followers
- 41 replies
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Hi everybody, I started a new DIY project. Since I really enjoy this forum and the wisdom shared I´d like to give something back. Here I´ll share the progress of this project with you. The situation I have a matched pair of Oktava MK-012 with cardioid capsules and use them for AB / ORTF stereo field recordings. I´d like to have good wind protection for them. Because I own a 3D printer and like to design functional parts I chose to give this approach a try before buying Rycote Baby Ball Gags or something similar. If everything works out I plan on buying just the fur from Rycote. For software I used Fusion 360 and Cura which both are free f…
Last reply by rempen, -
- 3 followers
- 23 replies
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I've had this zuca case for a couple months now and it has worked well when traveling around NYC for small eng and boom op gigs, but I wanted a secure place to put my pole on set as well as give it bigger wheels to better navigate crappy sidewalks. So I finally put some pieces I've been collecting together. Switched out the 4" skate wheels for 8" scooter wheels, sawed off the original front feet and added casters. Attached 2 boom holders on the back using broom holders from the container store (elfa system) and 2" pvc caps protected in the radius of the back wheels.
Last reply by Bethann, -
- 4 followers
- 4 replies
- 1.5k views
Less than $20 worth of hardware to make two of these..
Last reply by Derek H, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 3.2k views
Has anyone here done this mod themselves and be up for offering any ideas or tips? I’d love to get two toggle switches on the front of a venue to switch antenna power in and out but probably putting them on the rear panel would be easier. And here’s a dumb question.. While drilling through the case how do you keep metal cuttings from falling all over and into the circuit board? I know the painters tape trick which contains it to some degree. I suppose you could completely remove the boards but with my luck I’d probably break something in the process. Side question if Larry happens across this... if I use an illuminated switch does enough v…
Last reply by nagnila, -
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Hi I’m about to do the next thing. I would like to modify my eSMARTG BG-DH power disto in order to feed it with an Aton Bauer VCLX I'm thinking to solder XLR4pin’s Male/female between the eSMART socket conector and the distributor To still using the eSmart bag batteries when I need any one has tryed something like this ? Any advice thanks!!
Last reply by Rafael, -
- 5 replies
- 3.8k views
Is it hard to convert the "K-Tek K152CCR Klassic 5-Section Boompole with Stereo 5pin XLR Cable" to a normal 3 pin XLR connection? What do I need? thanks
Last reply by TomBoisseau, -
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- 783 views
Has anyone 3D printed or sourced colored boots for Rean TA3 straight connectors?
Last reply by Mikro Addict, -
- 16 followers
- 438 replies
- 124.9k views
I finally had a chance to whip up a couple prototypes! One is a low profile female XLR-3 and the other is a low-profile XLR-5 (for a Zaxcom Stereo Receiver) The XLR-3 just needs some type of "cap" to protect it from the elements. The XLR-5, I used Sugru and really cocked-up the finish. I need to find or make a proper cap, maybe from a plastic end cap of some type.
Last reply by Mikro Addict, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 2.2k views
Here is a modification I made on a couple of SM battery eliminators to work with Hirose power connectors. Also new cables were made for power and audio to complete the camera hop kit! Short profile connectors were fabricated where possible.
Last reply by lyrnxG,
