Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
806 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
I am going to wire an older AT899(cW) for a Sennheiser G4 3.5mm. Am I correct that I connet the Mic (white) to the tip and tie the Bias(red) and ground to both the ring and sleeve?
Last reply by Michael Render, -
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- 1.1k views
Working on a cart build and curious how people secure their 8 series to their carts? I’m aware of the 1/4 20 thread on the bottom, is anyone using that? If so what are you screwing it into? Obviously I can throw it in a bag and just plop the bag on the cart but looking for a more permanent solution so the mixer can live on the cart. The cart is going to have standard rack spaces so anything that could interface within them would be perfect.
Last reply by Constantin, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
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I needed to rewire a XLR5F to 2-XLR3M splitter. (It turns out that DMX pin assignments are not the same as audio) I normally keep my Hakko at 750F, but that didn't even make a dent in the solder joints. I had to go to 850 and barely got flow. Is this normal these days? Has anyone else experienced this? I am a not great with solder, but I usually don't have this much trouble. Any advice from experienced solderers would be appreciated.
Last reply by Michael Render, -
- 1 reply
- 894 views
I've made some panels out of Johns Manville SuperDuct RC duct boards wrapped in Guilford of Maine Anchorage. They're huge (70" x 44") and cover the inside of my whisper room. I thought I'd just nail up the panels with small nails since I didn't make frames, wanted the panels themselves to be flush with corners. The question is whether the fiberglass is strong enough to hold its own weight on the wall? Has anyone tried? I have a fear of the panels just sliding down around the nail like butter but I'm not sure if that's valid, or if it's rigid enough to just stay put.
Last reply by TVPostSound, -
- 2 replies
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Here's a couple of cart projects that may give you some ideas for your cart. I made a small folding table top for the top of the cart. It's a handy little space to put things while working on something or making adjustments. It sets up and folds away quickly. The table is made from some thin hardwood stock that is available online. The two pieces are held together by gluing sturdy fabric (duck cloth) on the back side. The supports are 3/4" aluminum stock that is bent around the antenna posts. Everything folds away when not in use. I like to drink coffee all day from a mug. These coffee cup holders from T-Nutz work well for mugs or tall drink holder…
Last reply by Paul F, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
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Hi everyone, I just bought the mixpre 10t ii last week, and on my first shoot (which got canceled before it even began, no less) I somehow managed to shear off the exterior of the headphone connector. No idea how this happened, and my headphone's 1/8" jack is not bent or damaged either. See the attached photos. SD offered to fix it, but I won't have a recorder for 2 weeks and would have to pay for inbound shipping. They alternatively offered to send me a replacement part, but were specific in not being able to offer guidance on how to DIY the repair, which is understandable. Rather than take it to a reseller for repair and spend ~$75-150, I was won…
Last reply by Johnny Karlsson, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 4.9k views
Hello I recently modded my sennheiser G4. what kind of sma antenna to cut do you suggest to use? I found zaxcom (straight version that is in kit 2 pieces to be cutted) for around 28$ kit. There is also audioroot swivel version for 30$ each one (60$ for 2). Remote audio miracle whip (straight version) 60$ for 2 antennas. The zaxcom ones seems the cheaper one. Are zaxcom good? Is the swivel version of the sma connector worth for the extra price? Thanks
Last reply by igomarsound, -
- 3 followers
- 41 replies
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Hi everybody, I started a new DIY project. Since I really enjoy this forum and the wisdom shared I´d like to give something back. Here I´ll share the progress of this project with you. The situation I have a matched pair of Oktava MK-012 with cardioid capsules and use them for AB / ORTF stereo field recordings. I´d like to have good wind protection for them. Because I own a 3D printer and like to design functional parts I chose to give this approach a try before buying Rycote Baby Ball Gags or something similar. If everything works out I plan on buying just the fur from Rycote. For software I used Fusion 360 and Cura which both are free f…
Last reply by rempen, -
- 3 followers
- 23 replies
- 18.6k views
I've had this zuca case for a couple months now and it has worked well when traveling around NYC for small eng and boom op gigs, but I wanted a secure place to put my pole on set as well as give it bigger wheels to better navigate crappy sidewalks. So I finally put some pieces I've been collecting together. Switched out the 4" skate wheels for 8" scooter wheels, sawed off the original front feet and added casters. Attached 2 boom holders on the back using broom holders from the container store (elfa system) and 2" pvc caps protected in the radius of the back wheels.
Last reply by Bethann, -
- 4 followers
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
Less than $20 worth of hardware to make two of these..
Last reply by Derek H, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
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Has anyone here done this mod themselves and be up for offering any ideas or tips? I’d love to get two toggle switches on the front of a venue to switch antenna power in and out but probably putting them on the rear panel would be easier. And here’s a dumb question.. While drilling through the case how do you keep metal cuttings from falling all over and into the circuit board? I know the painters tape trick which contains it to some degree. I suppose you could completely remove the boards but with my luck I’d probably break something in the process. Side question if Larry happens across this... if I use an illuminated switch does enough v…
Last reply by nagnila, -
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- 771 views
Hi I’m about to do the next thing. I would like to modify my eSMARTG BG-DH power disto in order to feed it with an Aton Bauer VCLX I'm thinking to solder XLR4pin’s Male/female between the eSMART socket conector and the distributor To still using the eSmart bag batteries when I need any one has tryed something like this ? Any advice thanks!!
Last reply by Rafael, -
- 5 replies
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Is it hard to convert the "K-Tek K152CCR Klassic 5-Section Boompole with Stereo 5pin XLR Cable" to a normal 3 pin XLR connection? What do I need? thanks
Last reply by TomBoisseau, -
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- 619 views
Has anyone 3D printed or sourced colored boots for Rean TA3 straight connectors?
Last reply by Mikro Addict, -
- 16 followers
- 438 replies
- 115.4k views
I finally had a chance to whip up a couple prototypes! One is a low profile female XLR-3 and the other is a low-profile XLR-5 (for a Zaxcom Stereo Receiver) The XLR-3 just needs some type of "cap" to protect it from the elements. The XLR-5, I used Sugru and really cocked-up the finish. I need to find or make a proper cap, maybe from a plastic end cap of some type.
Last reply by Mikro Addict, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
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Here is a modification I made on a couple of SM battery eliminators to work with Hirose power connectors. Also new cables were made for power and audio to complete the camera hop kit! Short profile connectors were fabricated where possible.
Last reply by lyrnxG, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
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Hi all, if like me you have a Tentacle Sync version 1 with a weak battery, then like me, you probably are having a terrible time finding any information on how to change it. Most retailers I contacted did not have stock on this part, let alone know that the part was available from Tentacle. Its an easy fix. The battery replacement kit which comes with a battery, new plastic housing, velcro hook tape, super glue and rubber color bands. I was able to open mine without causing damage to the original housing, so I just glued it back together on the side of the case opposite the screw. Here are some pictures:
Last reply by Jim Rillie, -
- 0 replies
- 920 views
Made this mount for A10 to fit a 15mm Ambient boom pole, there's a slot for a BongoTie rubber band, to secure the transmitter and keep the whole thing from not rotating on the boompole. Printed with Flexfill 98A on a Prusa Mini, with 100% infill around the boompole. Hope you’ll find it useful too. a10 ambient boom holder.stl
Last reply by zilver, -
- 2 followers
- 11 replies
- 6.8k views
Hello gang! I'm sorry if this has been covered already, I searched and found nothing. So, I work in radio on national public radio. We have a bunch of dead headphones, mostly due to broken wires inside the headphones, not the cable. I'm talking about the wire that go between the cups. It's a two core cable, where the wires are red and another color. And they're super thin. The jacket is hardly a mm (bear with me, I'm European) in width, and inside the jacket sits two even thinner wires. I think you know what I mean. Can you buy these cables in length? I'd gladly buy a mile of it if I could find it. My thinking is that the tax pa…
Last reply by Rory Reshovsky, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
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I made a 1/8” stereo cable for a dvd player for the kids in the car from scrap cable and connectors. As soon as we tap into 12v power in the car there is a buzz in the audio and whine that follows acceleration. Is there a trick to build into the cable to “lift” or otherwise combat the buzz that occurs that someone here might be familiar with?
Last reply by John Blankenship, -
- 8 replies
- 1.3k views
What are these little foot-capturing-mount-plate things called?
Last reply by Erin Bliss, -
- 7 replies
- 7k views
Not sure if you can really call it DIY but I did throw together a little solution for hanging the sound blankets I had. Started with some monfrotto 1005bac light stands since they go up to 9 feet when fully extended. Love these things because they clip together for easier storage. They I attached a super clamp to hold the pvc pipe. Picked up some mounting stuffs from home depot. And there it is! It actually stays up without a sandbag, which of course I'd use for safety, but thought it was pretty cool it didn't need one. There is a slight bend to the pvc, but it seems to hold be fine. Maybe I'll …
Last reply by Jspeer, -
- 4 replies
- 1.8k views
So, I just put together this cart last week for a show I started this week. It's working pretty well so far, but the main issue is that its top heavy and the wheels don't seem to be spaced the right way in order to support the weight when pushing. Of course pushing from the smart wheels side is easier, but it's tough getting it moving from a static position. I was thinking to maybe outrig the smart wheels so they are a little further out from the base, as well as getting some larger back wheels to help getting over bumps and such. Anyone have and thoughts or ideas on how to get this done? Thanks so much! Steve
Last reply by indiefilm, -
- 2 followers
- 27 replies
- 8.9k views
So after pouring over countless T-slot cart designs I’m about to put in my own order with 80/20 for a custom cut and milled kit to build a smallish, collapsible follow cart. Wondering if any of you who have done the deep dive into extruded aluminum T-slot contraptions would have any general advice? Things to watch out for or design mistakes to avoid? Connectors you hated? Some specific questions I have.. how does the anodized black framing stand up to wear and tear? Anyone use the “Central connector”? Thanks! Derek
Last reply by Derek H, -
- 2 replies
- 994 views
Found this battery https://www.canbat.com/product/12v-20ah-lithium-battery/ Do I need a Battery Management System or the battery poles straight to the XLR4 ? What kind of charger do you suggest ?
Last reply by Tony Johnson,
